||Trad, 5 pitches, 900'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Slater, Brandon Thau 7/2010|
|Season: ||Late Spring to Early Fall, whenever the roads are open|
|Page Views: ||674|
|Submitted By: ||Chris D on Jun 30, 2014|
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown climbers on P2 of Afternoon Nap. The high...
A fantastic and easy romp up a giant dome, this climb seems very civilized compared to the approach and descent. Begin by getting to the rock (20 minutes if you know what you're doing, up to a couple of hours if you don't) following the directions on the "Big Sleep" page. From the end of the trail, scramble up and right about 20-30 feet. You will see a bolt about 20 feet up. This is where the route starts.
All pitches are 60 meters, so don't tie in with a long tail, and don't plan on using any of your rope at the belay. This a good place for both you and your second to use a sling or a PAS to anchor in. All pitches end in a pair of solid bolts with chains. There is very little pro except for the bolts on a couple of pitches, but all difficulties are well protected and there are adequate bolts even at the easy parts to prevent catastrophe, so I don't think that a PG rating is deserved. Both places where roofs must be surmounted can be protected with a #1 Camalot, and other than slings, this is really all the pro you need. The route pretty much goes straight up, so it'd be a pretty noteworthy day if you managed to get lost. It would also be a noteworthy day if you managed to *not* get lost on the approach and descent, so be alert.
P1 - 2 bolts to the anchor. Follow the bolts. Very easy slab climbing with fantastic friction. A prominent roof protects well and is easiest to pass just right of the spot where it tapers down. Belay under a little left-facing roof
P2 - 5 bolts. Follow the water chute using the bolts as your guide to the anchors. First indications of the dikes above appear on this pitch.
P3 - 5 bolts. You follow the water runnel a little further, then follow a pair of really cool, understated dikes to the next anchor. Again, you can follow the bolts.
P4 - This is the business. 4 bolts. Easy 5.7 for besting the roof and for the friction step-across stemming the water runnel, both of which can probably (but shouldn't) be avoided on easier terrain. Leave the belay heading for the "stepladder" in the roof. A balancey no-hand two-step gets you over the roof here, with a bomber cam right beneath you. You can get over the roof to the left more steeply (but with some hands) or to the right at a lower weakness, but for my money, I'd head up the steps. It's a lot of fun. Above here, head for the left-facing crescent/arch and climb this to a spot with a somewhat delicate stem across the water runnel. Clip a bolt and run up to the route's only semi-unpleasant semi-hanging belay.
P5 - From the belay, climb up a few feet an clip a bolt (just one on this pitch), the run up the rest of the pitch on the left side of a giant "bellybutton" to some well-positioned chains at the end of the route. The angle eases off just as the rock becomes incredibly featured. Tie a couple of slipknots around the runnels to impress your friends, or just skip it if you're in a rush. You will not fall on this pitch. Your grandmother would not fall on this pitch.
From here either rap the route or scramble straight up third class boulders to increasingly low-angle rock that leads to the dome's summit.
Unlimited thanks to the author(s) of this route for putting up a reasonable and fun, easy outing. It will do much to get folks out to experience this fantastic setting.
See the approach and descent descriptions for Big Sleep.
Five single-length runners, two doubles, and a #1 Camalot-sized cam, and whatever you use to build anchors at two-bolt belays will be plenty for this route if you're familiar with even easy slab-climbing techniques. The runouts are, at times, tremendous (in excess of 40 feet) but they will seem trivial in light of the easy climbing and the rock quality, which is so nice and grippy that even an apprentice slab-master should feel confident at the end of the longest runouts.
Unknown climber just above the roof on the first p...
Long runouts through the mellow sections of Aftern...
Thad and Rob second the fourth pitch of Afternoon ...
BETA PHOTO: A party of three on the Fourth Pitch of Afternoon ...
By garrett helm
Oct 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Climbed this yesterday, 10/12/2014. This is a great climb with awesome rock and an even better setting.
The pitch-by-pitch description above is very accurate. However, I would give this climb a PG rating. The distance between bolts can huge and would result in a long skid if you managed to fall. A small rack of cams from BD .4-3 would be useful at times, but many of the runouts are not able to be protected.
I’ll reiterate the comments above regarding pitch length, especially for pitch four. If you place gear in the crescent, just before the crux stepover, you will need a long extension on the piece in order to reach the anchors above. The final 40’ of pitch four are certain to give you some serious rope drag.
7S02 to Brown’s Meadow was closed due to the French fire so we approached from the 2WD Camp on 6S59 and hiked the 4WD trail to the fire lookout. We then descended to the SE towards the Big Sleep summit. If approaching from above, the final anchors can be found directly SW of the summit block beneath a set of large blocks just before the dome angle steepens. Two 60m ropes are needed to rap the route.
You can find a topo here; TOPO