More interesting than it looks. This route begins with two bolts below a thin crack/seam just right of the huge right-facing corner system on the main wall. Once past the bolts, work both crack systems (the corner to the left and thin seam to the right) as the opportunities for handholds and gear presents themselves. Long slings prevent any rope drag.
This pitch, while not technically difficult or hard-to-protect, offers plenty of enjoyable suspense.
A second pitch is available at 12b, but I didn't (um, can't) do it.
2 bolts plus gear. Bring gear from small nuts/TCUs to #1 camalot. There was a pod for a #3 or #4 camalot, but a green camalot (sort of) fit in the same area. C3s went in nicely in a few places. Ends at bolt anchors.
|By jeff newsom|
May 27, 2008
This climb was done well before Dan Spurlocks ascent. No bolts were used .As is the unfortunate case with many climbs here,bolts were placed well after the early ascents.---Jeff Newsom
|By Stevie Nacho|
Oct 26, 2008
I vote this really good route should be rated 5.10a
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 12, 2013
This is a really sweet route, that could use some more traffic in the initial corner. IMO it is a much better start than using the bolted variation. You might enjoy doubles of small TCU-size cams but a single set is sufficient. Standard rack to 3 camalot otherwise.