After The Gold Rush  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  EDJ on Oct 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pitch 2, 11+ move passing the first bolt.

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This is a new classic for the crag. Two separate pitches on either side of the upper ramp make for a slew of new link up options. Eldo gear skills are a must as the bolts only protect where gear does not. The rock quality is excellent, the climbing is varied and sustained, and the pitches are both long.

Location 

Begin from the belay at the top of the third pitch of The Wisdom. This point can be reached in many ways: from Guenese up to The Wisdom. Move up the arete from the anchor 10' then left, out on to the face to a key RP. Pass this (.10b PG-13) straight up to more gear and moderate climbing until the ledge on the Le Toit exit pitch is reached. Move right up several moves on Le Toit then step left into shallow, left-facing corner. Climb this past three bolts to the face above (.11c), then move left along strata to belay on upper ramp. The next pitch starts on the first move of Love Minus Zero then follows a rising finger traverse left to the first bolt. Bust past this, then find gear moving left to the second bolt (.10a PG-13). Clip third bolt and move up to the foot ledge and place a 3" cam for the second. Move left to the bolt on the arete, pass a second bolt there, then stand back up onto the face to place a 00 Alien in a key slot. Moderate climbing past a good RP leads up to the bolt in the roof. Crank out left to a nice stance above the roof. Move up and right past an undercling (actually reversing a move on Love Minus Zero here), then go up and right again to steep, splitter crack which leads to several easy bulges and finally the big horn belay. Finish with Seams Beyond or escape on the T2 exit.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack...add an extra 00 Alien. Clip 3 bolts for the first new pitch to a natural arch anchor and 6 bolts above the upper ramp to a large horn anchor.

Photos of After The Gold Rush Slideshow

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Passing the 3rd bolt, second pitch. During one of...	The crux 5.12 arete, protected by 2 bolts.	Approaching the roof on pitch 2. Have some small ...
The roof move, 11+, before the final head wall cra...	Pitch 1 topo. Either start from the hanging belay...	Pitch 2 topo. It's about 150'. Continue to the t...
Lower part of pitch 2. Bring small gear for the c...	Upper part of pitch 2.