Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Mike Varlotta, Chuck & Annie Jones
Page Views: 766 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ryan Mullins on Mar 11, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: This area is closed to public use, each year, during February 15 - July 31 to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the Unexpected Party ledge, climb the wall directly behind the pine tree rappel. The lower portion of this wall is great quality rock. The crux is a small roof-like feature that has great holds on the face but could be a hard reach for a novice leader. Once over this feature gain the long ledge, about 2 feet wide.

From this ledge there are 2 options: belay from here and follow the ledge to the Tunnel of Love rappel, or climb up the next face to the top of the wall and then walk to Tunnel of Love. The top-most section of rock is not good at all and probably should be skipped. Broken holds and crumbling rock is very common.

Location Suggest change

Descent: Rap rings at top of route, but rope drag is awful and requires full body weight.

Alternative: Walk to Tunnel of Love Rappel either from the ledge or through the tunnel behind After Hours.

Protection Suggest change

Cams: #0.4-#3 (Camalot C4 sizes), #3 protects the small roof

Nuts, tricams, or hexes could also be used.  This rock takes passive gear well.

Photos

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