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This route climbs more or less straight up to the hanging dihedral 20' right of Waltzing Wern's crux.
Start on the left side of a white, rectangular face. Traverse right and stem across to a big stalactite feature. Wander up and right, then back left and up to a roof. Move right, then clip a pin before the crux. Soon you'll reach some hand jams and easy climbing to the top.
The gear is ok but a little tricky.
By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 24, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This route is destined to become an all time J-Tree classic! The circuitous path to the ominous overhanging dihedral is mentally demanding with a 10c move before the business begins. The spectacular crux section is well-protected and sequential on beautiful rock. Many thanks to AJ et al. for their work!!
By Russ Walling
Dec 6, 2006
If this is anything like its cousin that is 15 feet to the left, avoid it... loose rock and not worth the hike... any hike.