|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Tad Welch May 23, 1991|
|Submitted By:||Chris Duca on Mar 29, 2009|
|Comments on Afraid of the Dark||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 22, 2011
|The chimney to the right is a 5.7 variation with a #4 cam and worth trying. G protection.|
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I found this route to be really fun, but a little sustained and pumpy for a 5.8. I would bump the grade to a 5.9-. The crack is just about dead vertical and stays on you with tricky feet until you can stem off the chimney wall. The moves are really fun and balancy, and the gear is good. Really a fantastic single pitch route.
Looking at the picture provided above, I realize that I didn't climb it the way the leader did in the picture. I stayed in the crack the entire way, only stemming off the right wall a couple of times. Maybe that's why it felt harder.