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 ADVANCED
AFPA Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Glitters is not Golden TR 
Andromeda Strain T 
Bitch, Bitch T 
Boulder Crack T 
Boulder Face T 
Dance On a Dragon's Back  T 
McDonald-Wilson T 
Request Chimney T 
Rip Off T 
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 
Terminal Man, The T 
Two Our Surprise T 
Which Bitch T 
Which Witch T 

AFPA Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,300'
Page Views: 3,323
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Mar 20, 2003
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
83° | 59°
Clear
78° | 53°
Clear
74° | 50°
Clear
71° | 52°
Clear
74° | 54°
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Description 

This rock, located across the road from Trashcan Rock offers a variety of trad routes. Ratings range from 5.6 to 5.10+. Rock quality is good. Three of the best routes are Boulder Crack (5.8), Andromeda Strain (5.7), and Spaghetti Sauce Sunset (5.10c).

Descent is a walk off the backside (away from the road).

Routes from left to right

On the Road Again.............5.8
Boulder Crack....................5.8
Boulder Face.....................5.7
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail...........5.7
Bitch Bitch.........................5.7
Sand Witch........................5.10a
Big Bad Bitch.....................5.11+
Which Bitch.......................5.8
McDonald-Wilson...............5.10d
Andromeda Strain...............5.7
The Terminal Man...............5.8
Request Chimney...............5.7
Rip Off...............................5.6
Which Witch......................5.8
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset......5.10
Two Our Surprise................5.8


Getting There 

AFPA is directly across the road from Trashcan Rock.


Climbing Season



Weather station 9.0 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for AFPA Rock:
Boulder Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in AFPA Rock

Featured Route For AFPA Rock
"Mc Donald-Wilson". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

McDonald-Wilson 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : AFPA Rock
This climbs the poorly protected face to the left of "Andromeda Strain". I really can't see any way to safely protect this climb. There was a bolt, but it is gone, Start near the left side of the face and do some lieback moves then move up friction to a scoop/hole. Move up a shallow corner/groove with a gold pocket, then a shallow , right curving finger crack leads to a ledge beneath a headwall. A sheered off 1/4" bolt and additional hole will be seen. A horizontal crack/groove moves left. Move ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of AFPA Rock Slideshow Add Photo
AFPA Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: AFPA Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO
Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA. Photo by Blitzo.
AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP
AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP

Comments on AFPA Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 11, 2004
AFPA = "Across From Parking Area" or "A Formation Properly Avoided"??

Other suggestions welcome.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 12, 2004
My son and I went out to this area yesterday to scope it out and also bouldered a bit. The routes look fun, rock looks good as mentioned, walkoff easy, easy access, ....... is there a reason I am not aware of and should respect, to keep clear of this area Mike M?
By Woody Stark
Feb 22, 2004
Afpa Rock is one of the few formations that allow you to escape the wind. The top is another story.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2004
I take it all back! AFPA is actually pretty good - it is south-facing, sunny, and as Woody mentions, somewhat wind-protected. The routes, while not *classic* by any stretch, are fun and on generally good rock. A good cold/windy-day option.
By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006
This area ism't the greatest.