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Afin Que Nul Ne Meure 
Chlorochose 

Afin Que Nul Ne Meure 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 475', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Suhubiette, 1985
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 1,321
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 25, 2012
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Description 

A magnificent line that ascends clean rock to the left of the Dalles Grises rappel gully. Only 5 pitches long, this route provides a great intro into the Verdon process of rapping into the Gorge with little way out but up. After the vegetated descent, one may wonder how this vertical route could be any good. 'Afin' does not dissappoint as you follow a progression of amazing side-pulls, pockets, flutes, stems, jugs and a couple of roofs that guard the summit. This route REALLY has it all!

P1(5.9): This pitch shares the first pitch of Pichenibule, diagonaling up and left on incut features. Aim for a bolted anchor near an obvious bush. 90ft

P2(5.9): From the belay move left past the gully while looking for a line of bolts that climbs straight up (diverge from Pichenibule which keeps trending left.) Follow this line up until it moves left towards a bolted belay on the opposite side of the blunt arete. 85ft

P3(5.9+): A few hard but well-protected pocket moves above the belay lead to easier climbing above. After traversing slightly right, follow less than vertical ground to a belay anchor on a ledge. 95 ft

P4(5.9): Follow amazing, sculpted flutes and hidden jugs as you subtly trend right. The pitch is simply spectacular, requiring stemming, thin edging, smearing, and delicate lie-backing to "thank god" jug rests. 95 ft

P5(5.10a): With such an amazing pitch in the rear mirror, it is hard to believe that the final pitch is even better. Follow interesting features before tackling a couple of Gunks-like roofs that guard the summit. 110 ft


Location 

From the bottom of the Dalles Grises rappels, walk climber's left to the end of the Jardin de Ecureuils and set a tree belay. Look for bolts trending out left.


Protection 

All pitches and anchors are bolted although expect runouts on easier terrain. Gear consists of 10 draws, with additional long runners. Bring extra draws and many long runners if you wish to link pitches, but beware this will most likely lead to drag and some simul-climbing. Double ropes are required for the raps and are handy for the climb as well.



Photos of Afin Que Nul Ne Meure Slideshow Add Photo
Hidden jugs and sidepulls dispersed between pockets of flowers.  We were amazed how well this climbed despite the flora.  The start can be seen down to the left on the tree-strewn Jardin de Ecureuils.
Hidden jugs and sidepulls dispersed between pocket...
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