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Routes in Gargoyle Wall
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A Million Ways to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Pedrick's Chimney S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | lauren and caleb lichtenberger/don robinson |
| Page Views: | 6,231 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | clichtenberger Lichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1- 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Start is 20 feet left of the beehive route. 1st bolt is left of the two story cave at the base of the wall. Crux is pulling over the second bolt and it is height dependent. If you are shorter than 5ft 8in it may be harder. (115 feet)
P2- The first three bolts are shared with Cholla Traverse. After 3rd bolt trend up and left then follow bolts (6) up to two bolt anchor in a band of red rock, on the right side of large ledge. 9 bolts total. (125 feet)
P3- Same as the Fresh Air traverse. Traverse right on easiest ground with no pro, exit black streak. Continue up third class ramp to its end and exit right into gully with a short down climb to a palo verde belay.
Descent- Follow cairns and climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimeny for a single 100' rappel.
P2- The first three bolts are shared with Cholla Traverse. After 3rd bolt trend up and left then follow bolts (6) up to two bolt anchor in a band of red rock, on the right side of large ledge. 9 bolts total. (125 feet)
P3- Same as the Fresh Air traverse. Traverse right on easiest ground with no pro, exit black streak. Continue up third class ramp to its end and exit right into gully with a short down climb to a palo verde belay.
Descent- Follow cairns and climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimeny for a single 100' rappel.
Location
Chuck Yaeger calls aerial combat "the ultimate flying experience". Aerial combat was named after dueling falcons that were observed free falling during the establishment of the route on multiple occasions. This route is located just left of the Beehive crack on Gargoyle wall. The route is a serious climb with spacious face climbing using fun pockets. Leader should be comfortable well over pro on easier climbing.
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