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Rincon - L of Center Route
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Aerial Bondage 
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Aerial Bondage 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Archer & Keith Gottscahll
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 4, 2004
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Aerial Bondage takes the arete between Over the Hill and Aerial Book. I gave it s++ because you probably wouldn't die from a fall at one of the two *bad* places, but you wouldn't walk away either.

Start at Aerial Book and climb up that dihedral, then step left with committing (10d) moves up to the first bolt, or, stick clip it like me. Getting past this bolt is the 11c crux.

Continue up the arete to a flake which you can load up with a bunch of jingus gear (a blue alien seemed like the best piece to me), then stretch to the second bolt (9+). Do not blow this clip. 11a moves past the second bolt lead to easier ground. Finish with the upper half of Over the Hill.

Only worth a star compared to the excellent, and better protected, climbs in the vicinity.


Protection 

Two bolts, a hand size cam for the top. Three pins on Over the Hill.



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