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By AlexandreK
Nov 11, 2012
Long-time lurker, finally posting because I'm heading with a few friends to the New for the upcoming weekend and had a few questions as this will be my first time there as well.

1) Favorite climbs in the 5.10/5.11 range? What would be criminal to miss while we are there?

2) What's a good area to teach a couple of climbers to lead? They are solid top-rope climbers/boulderers, but have never led. A couple of people have mentioned Summerville Lake area as a good spot, but if anyone had some specific easy climbs without too much run-out between the bolts that would be amazing.

3) Best places to get some food in the area?

Thanks in advance!

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 11, 2012
El Chorro
Endless Wall. Many areas but all have goods sport in the 11- range. A lot of 10s all over but not many areas with a huge concentration. The areas with loads of 10s (eg Orange Oswald at the lake) will be packed.

Not many easy sport routes at the new for your friends to practice, but I'm sure someone will come up with something.

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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Nov 11, 2012
Bermuda, DWS
Bubba city is another area with friendly leads. Start with geisha girl (5.8) or the other easier leads nearby. Get comfortable then head over to the Decameron (10b) and the other 10s/11s in the area. Expect crowds here too.

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By S. Neoh
Nov 11, 2012
Sandstonia (Bubba) and Butcher's Branch are probably your best bet. And Orange Oswald Wall as Ryan had mentioned.

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By Jonathan Spencer
From Chattanooga, TN
Nov 11, 2012
Vanessa and I at Jackson Falls in Southern Illinoi...
Whippoorwill at Summersville lake has what you are looking for. Eat at Pies and Pints

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By Gif Zafred
From Pittsburgh, PA
Nov 12, 2012
Gif on Bimbo Shrine, Kaymoor
Assuming you are looking for bolted routes.
1) There are high quality 11's everywhere. If you are looking for more 10's, look at Summersville Lake and Sandstonia (Bubba)

2) Easiest bolted lines are at Whippoorwill, Sandstonia, and Summersville and are good to teach first time leaders

3) Pies and Pints for some of the best pizza you've ever had. Diogi's for good, fresh tasting mexican, Vandalian for breakfast (or any meal).

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By Blake Cash
Nov 12, 2012
No one area is "packed" with classics at the New. They are more spread out than in places like the Red, that being said...they are way better as well IMO. Crags I'd recommend: Butchers Branch, 7-11 Wall, Snake Buttress, Orange Oswald. I think Snake and the 7-11 have the best 11's in the whole NRG. Each one is different and interesting. Legacy, Discombobulated, Tony the Tiger, Scenic Adult are the best 5.11's you'll ever climb. The 7-11 Wall right past Butchers Branch which has a lot of easy 10's and one of the few bolted 5.9's in the region...warm up and walk over for 2 of the most memorable 5.11's.

Pies and Pints is mediocre, IMO. OK beer selection, the pizza is nothing to write home about, but worth going to once.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 12, 2012
El Chorro
Agree w/ everyone so far.

I forgot about Whippoorwill at the Lake. That place has EXCELLENT 5.8 to 5.11 as long as the water is low enough, which by now it will be unless something has changed this year. But I'd totally recommend hitting that place up. It was empty when I was there but who knows what day of the week that was.

Like Blake said the routes are spread out over very long crags. The "classics" aren't always close together. But I used to get bar jobs every fall in Fayetteville and stay for months at a time and the best piece of advice I can give you is this:

There aren't many bad routes at the New. You can get up on the worst rated climb in the book, brush the cobwebs off, and have a brilliant time. The rock quality there is so amazing that even the "bad" routes are good. I remember on days when I would go to a new area w/o a book and just climb anything that looked cool. Some of the best pitches I've ever climbed were on those days.

It may be the best single pitch climbing area in the country. Enjoy.

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By AlexandreK
Nov 12, 2012
Thanks a ton everyone!

Looked at both Sandstonia and Whippoorwill Wall and those look perfect, we will probably try to hit up both during our weekend there.

I'm excited; I'm from California but have heard a lot of amazing things about the New.

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By S. Neoh
Nov 12, 2012
Enjoy your visit.
You will not be sorry if you can break away and sample a few fine 5.11's at 7-11 Wall or Endless Wall (e.g. Snake Buttress), as Blake suggested.

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