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Routes in North Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Party T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Flakes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark and Long T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Joe Lee, Bill Lee, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Jul 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Climb the corner, passing a wide, hollowed-out section, to a short fist crack at the base of the arching wide crack above. Two 4-inch cams protect the fist crack. When the crack widens, get a good PLACEMENT for your number 6, and ADVANCE it as you work your way to the top of the corner. Some welcome face holds keep this section from turning into the horror-show it appears from below. Eventually, the main crack dead-ends at a steep, loose section. Bypass this by face-climbing left, then up. A fair .75 Camalot gives some protection to the traverse right, back into the main crack system. A hanging belay (on gear) can be set up here if necessary. Immediately above is a short, but steep and strenuous fist crack leading to a comparatively relaxed squeeze chimney and an excellent ledge.
The next pitch is much easier. Climb right and up to a deep, dark chimney with excellent face holds. Climb this and belay in an amphitheater at its top. A fourth class pitch then goes straight left on friction and ledges, passes a large bush, and descends a short ramp to the rappel station at the top of Midnight Oil. A 50-meter rappel leads to the ground.
The next pitch is much easier. Climb right and up to a deep, dark chimney with excellent face holds. Climb this and belay in an amphitheater at its top. A fourth class pitch then goes straight left on friction and ledges, passes a large bush, and descends a short ramp to the rappel station at the top of Midnight Oil. A 50-meter rappel leads to the ground.
Location
This route is on the lower, western edge of the Magic Triangle formation. It is probably only 30 feet to the right of Midnight Oil, but intervening brush and boulders make it a longer walk. The route starts up the wide, right-facing crack that is the opposite side of the mega-flake creating Bros Before Holes.
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