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Adrenaline Circus 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Josh Gross and Noah Bigwood
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 19, 2006

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Josh Gross on the final pitch of Adrenaline Circus

Description 

This is not a 4 star tower route, but it has interesting climbing and it is often warm and protected in the winter. ITs a bit obscure, so you probably won't meet anyone else up here, but its real close to town.
P1. From a small cedar below the south west face, go up and left through broken rock. A wide hand crack left of the broken corner is a bit easier to climb. Go over a roof and belay on a ledge on the west face. This pitches most redeemable quality is that it is over quickly... don't worry, the rock quality improves.
P2. Do face move protected by a bolt, perhaps 5.10+, then go up overlapping flakes to a large ledge about 60 feet above the last belay and below a large roof.
P3. Seems strange, but go up to the left in a short hand crack, then make slab moves, clipping bolts, across the slab above the belay. You want long runners for all your pro on this pitch. Move out right and around the arete and follow a good crack to another belay ledge. The slab is, at its hardest, 5.9 friction.
P4. This is the best of the group... make a hard 5.10 move out towards the arete, clip a bolt, then work your way up the arete with bolts for protection on very good rock. It breaks down into a corner, also protected by a bolt, then goes up some broken ground to the summit. This pitch is 10+ or 11-.
Rappel to the top of the 3rd pitch, then make a 160 foot rappel to the base.
All stations are bolted.

Location 

This route is on the southwest face and arete of Podunk Mesa Tower.

Protection 

Take 1 set of cams from .5 to #4 (friends). you might want an extra 3.5. You need at least 9 long quickdraws or slings.


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Adrenaline Circus on Podunk Mesa Tower
BETA PHOTO: Adrenaline Circus on Podunk Mesa Tower
Josh Gross at the start of Adrenaline Circus.
Josh Gross at the start of Adrenaline Circus.
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By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Mar 6, 2010

Great tower! Appropriate name, really exciting and at certain points. Pitch four is the crux. on the last pitch, lower down for to get to the first moves, not strait across... pitches two and three are awesome. fun clibing and good pro. the first pitch is loose and awkward. the last pitch is thin and spicy but a good pitch. I thought the aproach was the crux but it was a little snowy. all in all, fun route.
Bring a single set from .3-#5 camolot with doubles on .75-2. And, at least 10 quickdraws in which half are extendable.
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 7, 2010

Matt and I climbed this route last night. We left Sam's house at around 10pm and got back to the house at 3am. The route is sick! I agree that the middle two pitches are awesome, but I thought that the first pitch was pretty clean with some stellar moves. The last pitch is great climbing, on super clean rock. I would say this route is one in the top 15 free routes I have done in the desert.
Its damn good!
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Jan 26, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Great route. Description was right on. If doing this in the winter the route gets afternoon sun. Great last pitch!!!
By Josh Janes
Jan 5, 2012

A great final pitch almost makes up for a bunch of terrifying climbing on the rest of the route (the first pitch literally was a solo and getting to the first bolt on each of the remaining pitches was a lil' head's up). I only found places for a single run of Camalots from 0.5 to #4 even though I brought more. Kudos to the FA team for piecing together such an unlikely route.