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Good Medicine Area
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Adore 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin, 2001
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Boissal on Aug 2, 2010
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Uinta Rock cover shot, revisited.
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Description 

There are 2 ways to tackle this striking arete:

The 5.11a intended line (I assume) starts on the left side of the beast. The name of the game here is long moves to small lichen-covered crimps with bad feet (you know the story with aretes, no matter which side you're on the footholds are always on the other). A couple of hard moves, a clip and a holy-shit deadpoint will get you to a good horizontal. Watch for choss, bring a brush, warm up your fingers, the start is for real.

The 5.easy (my estimate) way starts on the right side of the arete. The uber-blank face can be bypassed by stemming against a pillar until the same good horizontal can be reached.

After that it's cruiser climbing on increasingly large holds past 2 more bolts to the top. Once there take a second to ponder how such a good looking line can be so unrewarding. That is until you see the pics of yourself on it...


Location 

Maybe 150' left of the Good Medicine Prow, across a dark choss-gully and at about the same level sits this short overhanging arete.

Climb it then bring someone up to clean and walk off climber's left (east?) down a few shelves. A bit of downclimbing gets you back to earth.


More than adequate fixed protection 

3 draws + something to set up a belay on the single bolt on top.
Bringing gear on Adore is about as useful as bringing it to the gym (read: not). Sure it makes you look cool in the pics and you can place anything from a .2 to a .75, maybe even a 1 somewhere, but really once you've clipped the 2nd bolt and the gear opportunities appear the holds are good and the climbing mellow. Go on, run it out, live a little.

If you want to lower/TR however, 1 or 2 green aliens or equivalent + long runners backup the lone bolt nicely.



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By Fett
Aug 3, 2010

Climbed this last week and thought it must be contrived. I got suckered to the right in the chimney and thought it was about 9+ (still fun). I agree when you get to the gear it backs off and big jugs appear. The shortness and having to walk off doesn't make you want to come back and do it again.