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 ADVANCED
Upper Infirmary Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admission Crack T,TR 
Air Apparent T 
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 
Emergency Entrance T,TR 
Haradrim T 
IV League T,TR 
Merit Based Pay T,S 
Mūmakil T 
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 
Remission S,TR 
Submission T 

Admission Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,038
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Using the slab you can avoid much of the thrutchin...

Description 

This is a fantastic offwidth lead.

Protection 

Large cams up to #4 Camalot, some stoppers for crack on upper right wall. The route can be top roped from tree at the top.


Photos of Admission Crack Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
There are a couple of spots where you can step out of the crack onto the slab to take a break. You can also clip a couple of the Remission bolts if you are short of cams. Chuck Graves is visible at the top left TR'ing Remission on self belay.
There are a couple of spots where you can step out...
Eddie leading Admission Crack, Upper Infirmary Slabs. Above this first tricky section the difficulty eases off considerably.
Eddie leading Admission Crack, Upper Infirmary Sla...

Comments on Admission Crack Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 2, 2001

It is really pushing it to call this a 5.7, I thought more of a 5.5.. just my two cents.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2002

This is a fun crack - much easier than the face route to it's left. It's ridiculous to give them both a 5.7 rating!
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Mar 27, 2003
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The only hard move is getting into the crack at the bottom. In most areas this would be 5.4 or under.
By retroClimber
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

IMO the other comments about this route really sandbag it. Yeah, I'm not a great climber but I've been known to haul my ass up the occasional 5.10.

The East Slab of the Dome is 5.6. The last time I climbed the Wind Ridge on the Wind Tower (start from the tree, not direct) it was rated 5.6.

The first 40 feet of this route is WAY more difficult than any move on either of these routes. The first move is easily 5.7 plus and perhaps 5.8 when compared to the 5.8 routes at Mary's Lake in Estes or Dihedral Route on Duncans Ridge.

Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's off width, easily sucks your leg up to the knee forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. Its just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right.

Don't bother with this route. The bolted routes here are much more enjoyable.
By John Layko Torkleson
Jun 17, 2012

"Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's offwidth, easily sucks your leg up to the knee, forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. It's just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right."

I feel like this quote sums up offwidth climbing pretty well. For what it's worth, I'm heading back to lead it next time I'm in the Vrain. It looks pretty dope.
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 19, 2012

This is a fine and easy lead, a good intro to fist jamming (or perhaps cupped hands?), with great gear. Good small gear can be found on the right wall for the last 1/3 of the route. Bring at least 1 #4 for sure.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun little route! Once you're past the steeper start, it's a cruise to the anchors. No more than 5.6.
By jamandbees
From: Nederland, Colorado
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Comparing this to the 5.6 slab climb "Community Service", the first move is definitely a little stiffer getting into the climb. The rest is a cruise, plausibly a 5.6 with the one or two 5.7 moves getting into this thing.