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Routes in Lower Tier
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Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cockpit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | K. Martinov, A Pon, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 628 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is not a bad line, and despite the R rating in the book, it is not really runout anywhere, much less where it is hard.
Start from the ground into a shallow corner. An optional 4" cam protects a high step right off of the ground. Once above the cam, a bomber stopper placement can be had. Get some underclings and pinches, and stand up to a good in-cut and clip the bolt. Surmount the roof, diagonaling left as you do. No runouts yet....
Move up and right into a series of flakes. I placed 2 small Aliens (both OK) on a sling and then proceeded up and left to a very solid #2 Camalot and then a stopper and then the pin. The pin can be backed up 16" higher with a green Alien if its age concerns you. No runouts yet.
Make a few thin moves to get up and clip the bolt, barely above your gear, and then clip and go directly up (5.9) or right and then up (easier) to the 2-bolt anchor. I don't believe that I ever went more than 10' without good gear, though some of the placements I found only after cleaning them out.
This route is good overall and is slightly easier than 'Auto Pilot' but slightly headier.
Start from the ground into a shallow corner. An optional 4" cam protects a high step right off of the ground. Once above the cam, a bomber stopper placement can be had. Get some underclings and pinches, and stand up to a good in-cut and clip the bolt. Surmount the roof, diagonaling left as you do. No runouts yet....
Move up and right into a series of flakes. I placed 2 small Aliens (both OK) on a sling and then proceeded up and left to a very solid #2 Camalot and then a stopper and then the pin. The pin can be backed up 16" higher with a green Alien if its age concerns you. No runouts yet.
Make a few thin moves to get up and clip the bolt, barely above your gear, and then clip and go directly up (5.9) or right and then up (easier) to the 2-bolt anchor. I don't believe that I ever went more than 10' without good gear, though some of the placements I found only after cleaning them out.
This route is good overall and is slightly easier than 'Auto Pilot' but slightly headier.
Location
This route is the right-most route under the roof at the low point, by 'Auto Pilot.' It starts in a shallow corner and goes through the roof, then up a series of flakes to a pin and then bolt to the 2 bolt anchor atop the slab.
Photos
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