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Adirondacks

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Loggers
One of the original trails. Still a ton o' fun. Near Lake Placid, NY
All In
Great to climb and descend. Singletrack bliss. Near Lake Placid, NY
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Adirondacks 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9375, -74.3775 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,365,996
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jan 19, 2007
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The Spider's Web.

Photo by, Graham McDowell

Description 

The Dacks. An untamed tract of public and private land spanning a topography larger than Vermont. The Park is preserved by legislation from 1885 declaring that the lands of the preserve "be forever kept as wild forest lands." That statement by the Forest Preserve was the formal beginning of what has now become a 6,000,000 acre wilderness--the largest state park in the lower 48.

The Adirondack park is prized more for the recreational potential it offers than for the economic value of its natural resources. That being said, don't come the Dacks thinking that you are going to be welcomed with large welcome signs, visitor centers every 100 yards, and tourist shops around each bend. On the contrary; the Adirondacks are a quiet swath of rugged terrain that offers a very humbling and traditional approach to rock climbing.

The sheer number of crags and walls within the Parks' boundaries is enough to satisfy someone for a lifetime. There are well over 250 climbing areas in the Adirondacks, all of which deal a very unique experience from the next. Areas such as Keene Valley and the Cascade Lakes Region offer the largest variety of climbing, allowing a climber to sample massive multi-pitch slab adventures and desperate single-pitch test-pieces within minutes of the parking lot. There are also numerous backcountry crags such as Wallface, Gothics, Big Slide, and The Cranberry Lake Region that test climbers fortitude, patience, stamina and route-finding skills. On many of these committing routes, don't expect the climbing to be clean 100% of the time. It is best to carry a brush for cleaning and a healthy understanding of adventure.

Unlike many other climbing areas across this country, there is no epi-center for the climbing here. One could argue that Keene Valley is the central locus for climbing in the Dacks, and this very well may be the case. However, you'd be hard-pressed to find teeming hordes of chalkbags spraying beta from below. Those who have climbed before you have tried to leave very little evidence of their passage, save for a few slings growing from the side of the cliff. You won't find overly-chalked holds, or tick marks marring a route from top to bottom. What you will find in the Adirondacks is adventurous, character-building climbing that carries with it the very essence of traditional rock climbing.

In April of 2008, Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas released the most comprehensive guidebook for Adirondack Park to date (www.adirondackrock.com). This 652 page labor of love meticulously documents every route, crag, and trail system within the parks vast boundaries, and it invites the reader/climber to become intimately involved with each route thanks to the stories and reflections scattered throughout the guide. 19 color photos grace the pages of this text, as well, breathing depth and life onto the unique landscape and rock texture of the Adirondacks.

Be aware that several cliffs throughout Adirondack State Park observe seasonal closures to allow for Peregrine nesting. Such cliffs include: Moss Cliff, Poke-O-Moonshine and The Washbowl Cliffs. Check with the New York Department of Environmental Conservation website (www.dec.ny.gov) before attempting to climb at any of the aforementioned areas.


Getting There 

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.


959 Total Routes


['4 Stars',124],['3 Stars',279],['2 Stars',298],['1 Star',179],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',146],['5.7',87],['5.8',125],['5.9',85],['5.10',155],['5.11',53],['5.12',23],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',30],['V2-3',73],['V4-5',27],['V6-7',13],['V8-9',9],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Adirondacks:
Multiplication Gully   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 225'   Adirondack Ice Climbing : Wilmington Notch - High Fal...
Roaring Brook Falls   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Adirondack Ice Climbing : Giant Mountain
Chouinard's Gully    WI3     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Trap Dike (summer)   4th 1 2 I M 1b     Trad, 2000'   High Peaks : Mt. Colden
Regular Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 700'   Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab
Little Finger   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   Lake George Region : Rogers Rock
Pete's Farewell   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag
Rockaholic   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls
The El   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
The Diagonal   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 7 pitches, 860'   High Peaks : Wallface
Gamesmanship   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Frosted Mug   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls
Bloody Mary   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls
Esthesia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
On The Loose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
TR   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
The Fastest Gun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Drop, Fly, or Die   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
Browse More Classics in Adirondacks

Featured Route For Adirondacks
Jamie McNeill hits the crux moves of Black Arch ArÍte on the FA, 15th October 2008

Black Arch ArÍte 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Black Arches Wall
Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top.Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arÍte and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Adirondacks Slideshow Add Photo
Mystery Achievement (5.9) at Good Luck cliff.  Tight hands, and sustained in the lower portion.  Perfectly straight line; no need for all those draws hanging on my gear loops!
Mystery Achievement (5.9) at Good Luck cliff. Tig...
Snowy Mountain's, In the Buff, 5.7
Snowy Mountain's, In the Buff, 5.7
Stewarts Ledge, Lithium, 5.10a
Stewarts Ledge, Lithium, 5.10a
Jimmy on Upper Washbowl, Weekend Warriors, 5.10
Jimmy on Upper Washbowl, Weekend Warriors, 5.10
This is what it's all about.  Luxury dirtbagging
This is what it's all about. Luxury dirtbagging
Route: Flying and Drinking and Drinking and Driving <br />Location: Beer Walls, Keene Valley, Adirondacks, NY <br />Climber: Chris Vultaggio
Route: Flying and Drinking and Drinking and Drivin...
The bears are always smarter than you are. Bring the (now required) bear cannisters if overnighting in the high peaks.
BETA PHOTO: The bears are always smarter than you are. Bring t...
Comments on Adirondacks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 10, 2007

For a sample of climbing in the 'Dacks check out the film Uncommon Ground

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Nov 28, 2008

For new rock climbing routes in Adirondack Park, go here: www.AdirondackRock.com/newroutes.htm

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
May 28, 2009

The "Poke-O-Moonshine Area" has been moved to the "Lake Champlain Region", and the "Wallface Area" has been to the "High Peaks Area" to help those folks cross-referencing the ADK Rock Guidebook with this site, or vice versa.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Mar 24, 2010

Info on Silver Lake can be found here. This area is north of Whiteface and not far from Poke-O. It consists of 14 major cliffs, and opened to the public in 2009.

By Nick Goldsmith
May 27, 2013

anyone know if Poco got snow? Chances of fastest Gun being dry?
Thanks, Nick

By John Lombardi
Sep 23, 2013

For some extensive coverage of boulder problems in the Adirondacks check out: www.boulderproblems.com

I met the guy who runs the site, Zac, out at Nine Corners last week. Great guy and the site is pretty spiffy.

By odile from quebec
From: wilmington
Oct 30, 2013

Hy...i see a crag the other side of 9n neer ausable river..on the street Green ST a crag

Green st  ausable river
Green st ausable river

Topo exist? its a private?
thanks!

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Oct 31, 2013

odile: This is Haystack, documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, page 69. Yup, private land.