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Adirondack Off-Widths
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By John Lombardi
Jun 4, 2014
Looking for information on climbs, or areas, that are in the 5.6-5.10 range and are Off-Widths in the 'dacks. Or even have a longish off-width section. I know of a couple like Fear of Flying at Moss cliff... but am looking for more!


Thanks!

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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jun 4, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff.

What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!

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By Nick Goldsmith
Jun 4, 2014
P1 of Hessitation. P3 of Prelude. the last pitch of Flash Dance

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By Glass Tupperware
From that stuff out East
Jun 4, 2014
Summitting Independence Monument
Esthesia at Spider's Web

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By John Lombardi
Jun 4, 2014
Chris Duca wrote:
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff. What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!


Is the 8+ at beer walls Clutch and Cruise?

Great recommendations, everyone! Thanks.

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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jun 4, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.
Yes, Clutch and Cruise is the 8+. Oh yes, forgot about Esthesia, probably because I always lay the damn thing back!

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By Nick Goldsmith
Jun 5, 2014
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?

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By Matt Stamplis
From Boston, MA
Jun 5, 2014
I haven't climbed it but I was told the Route of Oppressive Power (10+) at the High Falls Crag is worth seeking out for those with a hankering for some wideness.

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By Eric G.
Jun 5, 2014
Nick Goldsmith wrote:
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?


Yeah I remember it being 5 or so feet of strenuous #2 hands, maybe slightly wider.

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By Jay Harrison
Jun 5, 2014
On an early FA with Dick Tucker.
Crane Mountain has a few short offwidth sections on a few climbs:
October Crack (Wayout Wall) has a fair amount of fist/off-fist. Note that the Wayout Wall has at least one 150' long narrow OW crack that has yet to see an ascent, and a 50' squeeze chimney yet to be sent as well.
Pain & Pleasure, on the summit cliffs, is a particularly natty OW starting crux, with gritty, "alpine" rock consistency.
Rise & Shine's initial crack is not, technically OW; but it's so painful most people climb it as if it were.
There is a 5.11ish (?) OW overhang direct finish to Ape X yet to be led. I've watched one climber TR through it. Looks painful.
E-Stim also has a wide crack start, although this can be (and usually is) cheated to the right, via faceholds.
ET&LI/Torcher start at a wide OW.
Parallel Passage is not an OW, but can be climbed as a sort of insane tips-jam/squeeze chimney combination. I've seen it done, but would never consider going through that much agony.
Suicidal Sidney is a decent 5.9- OW.
Variety Crack has one of the longer stretches of OW on the "busy" side of the mtn, and is probably the highest quality route in this list.
Two routes were just put up on the Caterpillar Cliff, both of which sport OW cracks. Caveman Cam is slightly tighter than squeeze chimney, 5.7ish, Ben's route is fist to off-fist sized, 5.9ish. Both are still very dirty.
None of the established routes on Crane is full-length OW, but then, Crane's routes are seldom one style of climbing for the entire length. But a good day can be had, touring the mtn. and snagging what pointless pain these samples provide.

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By Doc from Rocksport
Jun 5, 2014
Brie's first glacier climb
I think "Birthday Spanking" (5.10d) at the Hudson River Crag is awaiting a 3rd ascent. It should be in shape once the black flies subside in there (November should be a safe bet, judging by this year...)

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By Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Jun 6, 2014
Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's.

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