Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Adirondack Off-Widths
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jun 4, 2014
Looking for information on climbs, or areas, that are in the 5.6-5.10 range and are Off-Widths in the 'dacks. Or even have a longish off-width section. I know of a couple like Fear of Flying at Moss cliff... but am looking for more!


Thanks!
John Lombardi
Joined Aug 28, 2013
105 points
Jun 4, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff.

What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!
Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,312 points
Jun 4, 2014
P1 of Hessitation. P3 of Prelude. the last pitch of Flash Dance Nick Goldsmith
Joined Aug 23, 2009
191 points
Jun 4, 2014
Summitting Independence Monument
Esthesia at Spider's Web Glass Tupperware
From the barren midwest
Joined Jul 4, 2012
52 points
Jun 4, 2014
Chris Duca wrote:
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff. What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!


Is the 8+ at beer walls Clutch and Cruise?

Great recommendations, everyone! Thanks.
John Lombardi
Joined Aug 28, 2013
105 points
Jun 4, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
Yes, Clutch and Cruise is the 8+. Oh yes, forgot about Esthesia, probably because I always lay the damn thing back! Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,312 points
Jun 5, 2014
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands? Nick Goldsmith
Joined Aug 23, 2009
191 points
Jun 5, 2014
I haven't climbed it but I was told the Route of Oppressive Power (10+) at the High Falls Crag is worth seeking out for those with a hankering for some wideness. Matt Stamplis
From Boston, MA
Joined Jul 26, 2006
6 points
Jun 5, 2014
Nick Goldsmith wrote:
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?


Yeah I remember it being 5 or so feet of strenuous #2 hands, maybe slightly wider.
Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
53 points
Jun 5, 2014
On an early FA with Dick Tucker.
Crane Mountain has a few short offwidth sections on a few climbs:
October Crack (Wayout Wall) has a fair amount of fist/off-fist. Note that the Wayout Wall has at least one 150' long narrow OW crack that has yet to see an ascent, and a 50' squeeze chimney yet to be sent as well.
Pain & Pleasure, on the summit cliffs, is a particularly natty OW starting crux, with gritty, "alpine" rock consistency.
Rise & Shine's initial crack is not, technically OW; but it's so painful most people climb it as if it were.
There is a 5.11ish (?) OW overhang direct finish to Ape X yet to be led. I've watched one climber TR through it. Looks painful.
E-Stim also has a wide crack start, although this can be (and usually is) cheated to the right, via faceholds.
ET&LI/Torcher start at a wide OW.
Parallel Passage is not an OW, but can be climbed as a sort of insane tips-jam/squeeze chimney combination. I've seen it done, but would never consider going through that much agony.
Suicidal Sidney is a decent 5.9- OW.
Variety Crack has one of the longer stretches of OW on the "busy" side of the mtn, and is probably the highest quality route in this list.
Two routes were just put up on the Caterpillar Cliff, both of which sport OW cracks. Caveman Cam is slightly tighter than squeeze chimney, 5.7ish, Ben's route is fist to off-fist sized, 5.9ish. Both are still very dirty.
None of the established routes on Crane is full-length OW, but then, Crane's routes are seldom one style of climbing for the entire length. But a good day can be had, touring the mtn. and snagging what pointless pain these samples provide.
Jay Harrison
Joined Oct 18, 2008
5,126 points
Jun 5, 2014
Brie's first glacier climb
I think "Birthday Spanking" (5.10d) at the Hudson River Crag is awaiting a 3rd ascent. It should be in shape once the black flies subside in there (November should be a safe bet, judging by this year...) Doc from Rocksport
Joined Sep 13, 2010
16 points
Jun 6, 2014
Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's. Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
581 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!