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Adirondack Ice Climbing

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Adirondack Ice Climbing 


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Location: 43.9375, -74.3775 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 9, 2009
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Melissa Feldmann follows P1 of The Cascade(NEI 2).

Description 

This section is dedicated to all those demented fanatics that call whacking sharp, pointy things into frozen icicles a worthy endeavor.

Ice climbing in the Adirondacks is as solitary an experience as its rock climbing counterpart. The routes range in character from solitarty drip lines to chandaliered waterfall ice. From Poke-O's long, heady smearfests, to the fat plastic ice of Chapel Pond Gully, the Adirondacks house some of the East's finest ice escapes. If you come with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a penchant for adverse conditions, you won't be disappointed.


Getting There 

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks, although in the middle of winter, the Ferries typically do NOT run. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.


Climbing Season


126 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Adirondack Ice Climbing:
Hot Shot   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Providence   WI3 M2     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 265'   Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes
The Waterfall   WI4-5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Poke-O-Moonshine
Haggis and Cold Toast   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
White Line Fever   WI2-3     Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Ice Slot   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
North Face   WI2 Easy Snow PG13     Ice, Snow, 2 pitches, 1200'   Gothics
Central Pillar of Pitchoff   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   North Face of Pitchoff
Pitchoff Quarry   WI4-5     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Cascade Pass
Lions on the Beach   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Neurosis   WI3-4     Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Poke-O-Moonshine
The Cascade   WI2+     Ice, 3 pitches, 1200'   Cascade Pass
Roaring Brook Falls   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Giant Mountain
Multiplication Gully   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 225'   Wilmington Notch - High Fal...
Positive Thinking   WI5     Ice   Poke-O-Moonshine
Positive Reinforcement   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Waterfall Wall   WI3     Trad, Ice, 6 pitches, 730'   Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes
Crystal Ice Tower   WI4     Ice   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Power Play   WI4+     Ice, 3 pitches, 220'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Chouinard's Gully    WI3     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Browse More Classics in Adirondack Ice Climbing

Featured Route For Adirondack Ice Climbing
Base of first pitch

Positive Thinking WI5  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine
Get a copy of Don Mellor's Blue Lines book for the best information.The first pitch is steep but not quite vertical, belay from ledge on climbers right. Sometimes the first pitch does not reach the ground or is very thin, pay attention and be careful. The pitch two columns are the definite crux. The final pitch is less involved. Hike the ridge to climbers left to the descent gully or if it is late and no climbers are below rap the face using v-threads....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Adirondack Ice Climbing Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Jan 9, 2010

A lot of Adk Ice climbing is anything but solitary, at least on weekends and holidays. Chouinard's Gully, despite having three variations to choose from, is generally queued up from about 9am until dark. Same with Roaring Brook Falls, Multiplication Gully, and most of the fast-access ice along Cascade Pass. A couple of these become hazardous as parties ascend and rappel around each other, mostly because ice chunks channel down the climbing path.
Of course, there is a lot of ice far enough off the beaten track to spend a lifetime whackin'. If the classics are crowded, take a look at some of the farther-flung flows. Just bring snowshoes for the approach!

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Dec 8, 2011

Don Mellor (mellord@northwoodschool.com) is collecting information for the next edition of Blue Lines. More info here.