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Adding/moving bolts at Stone Mountain NC
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By nbrown
From western NC
Dec 12, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

I remember the same era as Todd - the 80's and 90's - when EC was routinely solo'ed by climbers wearing Teva sandals (they were trendy at the time) and usually a backpack as well. Most stone climbers simply met up on the tree ledge back then - I know it's kinda weird. Also, when we were learning to climb there (before climbing gyms) my brother and I both used to scare ourselves silly trying to lead that thing - in our five-tennies, and no big cams (they didn't exist). We were 11 years old at the time and didn't have real rock shoes, not that it would've mattered much. I must admit that it was not me that finally sacked up enough to lead that thing, it was my bro.

Anyway, sorry for further derailing your post Emil.

Now, back to the topic of placing a bolt on Orange Blossom Special. I would be for it if the dying of the tree limb were a relatively recent occurrence, but I don't believe it is. Even the TK guide shows it as unprotected, so I'm thinking that the mentioning of that in the Select was just for the sake of historical posterity. I personally cannot recall ever seeing a limb over there.


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By Emil Briggs
Dec 12, 2013

Yeah the thread has drifted a bit Nathan. The way it drifted is probably relevant to the original question though.

The main reason I could see for adding a bolt would be to restore the line to it's original condition. It would still be seriously runout but not X rated anymore.

On the flip side I can see a couple of reasons for not adding it. The first as you mention is how long it's been like this. Tradition matters and for a lot of people it's always been a solo. The second, which was raised by one of the FA party is that even if adding a bolt is justified on Orange Blossom it might lead to people wanting to add them to other routes where it was not. And I think we can see that happening in this thread with the discussion of EC.

I admit to being surprised by this. The difference between the two routes seems clear to me but apparently not to everyone. Given that, I'm coming to the conclusion that adding the bolt would not be advisable.


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By Todd Wells
Dec 12, 2013

Orange Blossom never had protection to my knowledge, tree branch or otherwise. A potential grounder was the deal if you wanted to do the climb, so, I would be against bolting it. The climb is a mental test piece and we need those. The whole point of slab climbing is mind control it seems to me.


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By Emil Briggs
Dec 12, 2013

Todd Wells wrote:
Orange Blossom never had protection to my knowledge, tree branch or otherwise. A potential ground was the deal if you wanted to do the climb, so, no, Orange Blossom should not be emasculated to make it accessible to the risk-averse climber. The climb has always been a mental test piece and is certainly not for everybody. Celebrate that. To bolt it would mean that you're merely "playing Russian Roulette with a squirt gun"--Rich Gottlieb. The whole point of slab climbing is mind control after all.


Not sure how long you've been climbing there but my information comes from both the Select guide and directly from a member of the FA party who confirmed it to me yesterday.


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By Todd Wells
Dec 12, 2013

I'm sure you're right Emil. But I did the climb in the mid-1980's and there was no tree branch for protection then.


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By Emil Briggs
Dec 12, 2013

I think it went up in 1979 so if the tree was down by 1985 it explains why so few people remember it.


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 13, 2013

I will be passing though NC this weekend, and as a former regular at Stone, feel like a heads up is appropriate. In my mind there are about a dozen routes that could use additional bolts but honestly if I can develop just few of them this weekend I'll be happy.

I'm not doing this so sport climbers that can't place gear can send!

Right now I'm planning on placing one bolt on Strawberry Preserves to replace the branch that could be slung, one on Rainy Day Women about halfway up to the first set of anchors, and one on Captain Crunch about halfway to where the first bolt is now.

Entrance Crack will not be bolted!


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By Kyle Kimball
From Asheville, NC
Dec 13, 2013
J Clarks

Matthew Blevin wrote:
I will be passing though NC this weekend, and as a former regular at Stone, feel like a heads up is appropriate. In my mind there are about a dozen routes that could use additional bolts but honestly if I can develop just few of them this weekend I'll be happy. I'm not doing this so sport climbers that can't place gear can send! Right now I'm planning on placing one bolt on Strawberry Preserves to replace the branch that could be slung, one on Rainy Day Women about halfway up to the first set of anchors, and one on Captain Crunch about halfway to where the first bolt is now. Entrance Crack will not be bolted!

Nice, you might as well bolt the Great Arch as well! Good luck to you, sir who registered just to troll this thread!


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By SinRopa
From parts unknown
Dec 13, 2013

Dear Trollbolter - Really? You're going to place imaginary bolts on every route except the one I argued for? That's messed up.


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 13, 2013

Not trolling. Long time follower of MP, first time poster. Contributing to the thread required me to register.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Dec 13, 2013
Edge of a Dream

Obviously trolling. Hypothetically, why would you waste money on bolts that will be chopped ten minutes after you drill them?


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 13, 2013

So a few of us can lead those routes and not die if we fall. If someone comes along and chops the next day, that's ok.

EDIT: It's only a few bucks. Not like I'm putting up 100s of them.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Dec 13, 2013
Edge of a Dream

Whatever dude. You'd just be permanently damaging the rock. Climb something else, rap in, and set up a top rope. That't what I did before leading Mercury and other routes in the middle of the South Face.


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By SinRopa
From parts unknown
Dec 13, 2013

There's no way he's serious. Saturday's weather: "A light mix of wintry precipitation in the morning. Then periods of rain expected in the afternoon."


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 14, 2013
Thumbtastic

Troll central around here lately. At least Hellenor hasn't shown up to bestow grammatical errors on the unwilling masses in this thread (yet)


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 14, 2013
Meme guy

Matthew Blevin wrote:
Not trolling. Long time follower of MP, first time poster. Contributing to the thread required me to register.



Yeah bro cool! Let's meet up tomorrow at the homestead and I can help out! Sound good Matt?


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By Recon Buck
Dec 16, 2013

I think the obvious solution is to put an old rusty 1/4" button head with a cracked keeper hanger where the branch was; then everyone would be happy! You would have a bolt to clip, but you would still be free soloing, win win


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 17, 2013
Meme guy

Weather looks good all week Matt... Meet up soon?


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 17, 2013

I was there Sunday. Don't worry, I didn't bolt anything.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 17, 2013
Meme guy

Matthew Blevin wrote:
I didn't bolt anything.


You're god damn right you didn't!


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By Rick Mix
Dec 17, 2013

Adding or moving bolts at Stone is in my opinion not acceptable. Most of the old bolts were replaced some years ago and I well remember the commotion that caused. Strawberry Preserves and OBS have been done with out bolts or tree branches. (I climbed both routes in the early 80s sans tree branches, or sticky rubber.)

Stone Mtn. was and is a bastion of pure friction climbing. A resource unlike any other. Not supposed to be 'safe' or convenient. As my good friend Todd Wells said up thread it's much about mind control. Not sport climbing, but 'sporting' climbing!

GET SOME!


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 17, 2013

Meme Guy wrote:
You're god damn right you didn't!


Didn't have anything to do with you meme guy...

Serious, non-troll question that someone already asked and I'm asking again: How come bolted rap stations are ok, if the climbing isn't supposed to be safe or convenient?


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By AD_Ange
Dec 17, 2013

But my edition of "Sport Climbs of the East" lists Stone Mountain as a sport climbing area.......?


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 17, 2013
Meme guy

Matthew Blevin wrote:
Didn't have anything to do with you meme guy... Serious, non-troll question that someone already asked and I'm asking again: How come bolted rap stations are ok, if the climbing isn't supposed to be safe or convenient?


I didn't approve that shit. Can't give you an answer, might as well chop em.

AD_Ange wrote:
But my edition of "Sport Climbs of the East" lists Stone Mountain as a sport climbing area.......?


If by sport you mean 50 feet between each bolt then yes.


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By Matthew Blevin
From Keene Valley, NY
Dec 17, 2013

Meme Guy wrote:
I didn't approve that shit. Can't give you an answer, might as well chop em.


fair enough. anyone else?


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