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Adding/moving bolts at Stone Mountain NC
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By Emil Briggs
Dec 26, 2013

Adam Paashaus wrote:
Merry Chrismas y'all. The thing about stone is, everything is an "understood" runout. Nothing there is well protected, with the exception of the great arch and no alternative because they follow the only crack systems on the south face. Haven't done fantastic and fleet feet so I don't know about those so much. This thread is making me want to go scare myself again!


Adam if you get a chance definitely give Fantastic and Fleet Feet a shot. Or at least the first pitches of both. Fleet Feet is not scary at all and is quite nice with only a touch of slab climbing and is one of the best protected climbs at Stone.

The first pitch of Fantastic is IMHO not just the best pitch at Stone but one of the best 5.9 pitches in the state. You get crack, face, flake and slab climbing all on the same pitch. That being said it's stout 5.9 all the way and while the first 80 feet are well protected the last 20 can get a bit exciting.


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By Brendan Mulhern
Dec 26, 2013

Here is an excerpt taken from Dave Smith's 1976, Wasatch Granite:

II. Bolts
The use of bolts has allowed some very fine climbs on the smooth and often crackless granite of the area. However, in recent years, a number of new bolts have been placed on older routes that have been done many times over a number of years. The "S-Crack" route on The Thumb provides an excellent example. First done in 1964 without the use of bolts, it was still free of them when I first did it in 1970. By 1972 when we did the first clean ascnt, three unnecessary bolts had been placed. Two of these bolts were placed to avoid climbing the chimney on the second potch. While this chimney is hard (F8), one can arrange an upper belay for the hardest part. The other bolt was placed at the start of the third pitch to avoid having to use an A2 pin or nut right off the belay ledge. In 1974 anothher bolt was added to the route. It was placed in the middle of the beautiful fourth pitch, adjacent to a bombproof fixed pin and next to a crack that easily takes either pins or nuts. By 1976, two more bolts had been added to the third pitch. With the use of aid from these bolts it is possible to avoid the exciting pendulum altogether. Thus, a route done many times over a period of some eight years without bolts is now descrated with six unnecessary bolts placed by climbers who had not learned that bolting is done only as a substitute for climbing. Given enough time and enough bolts any rock face may be climbed. Bolts which are necessary have been in place on existing routes for years. Please, DO NOT place bolts on existing routes. The converse of this is also true. Once a bolt has been placed, nothing is accomplished by chopping it. The rock cannot be restored to its natural state and a chopped bolt generally gives birth to a new bolt. Thus, once a bolt is in place, regardless of how senseless or useless its placing, resist the urge to chop it.


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By Russ Keane
Dec 26, 2013
Where's Waldo?

That should incite a whole new slew of comments!! Provactive!


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