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Adding/moving bolts at Stone Mountain NC
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Dec 25, 2013
Red Rock
Yea outwest some of the places i have climbed runout was like 15-20ft before a bolt which is a normal or well protected route here. I have also climbed routes with 27 bolts + 3 anchors for like 280ft.

I guess i started climbing here so i am used to dealing with 20ft first bolts after a hard move (or in alot of routes the crux). I understand sometimes you have to put a bolt where the rock is good but i know more than one route where the bolts are just put in stupid locations that are hard to reach (given i have negative ape index) or get in the way of your feet. So i normally assume some of it is just my body type.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
181 points
Dec 25, 2013
Chilling at top of pitch 6
^^^^ ok I guess ignore my last two posts. I was only responding to the claim that all routes out west were are safe. I am only a beginner. It was my mistaken understanding that a "R" and/or "X" rating denoted a route with "unsafe fall" potential. Meaning risk of injury or death due to how the route protects.

I am willing to admit this mistake is probably due to me being such a beginner. So if I am understanding correctly a route like Mercy Me would not receive a "R" rating in NC??? It would be considered safe?? I have to also ask wtf it takes in NC for a route to be considered "R" or god forbid "X" rated?

Geez you NC guys are truly bold...
Jonny 5
From Squamish BC
Joined Aug 6, 2013
1,250 points
Dec 25, 2013
Red Rock
(These are all routes from pilot because there is a website guide that i can get pictures of them easy)

This one gets PG13 (where the left route line is). (not the person on the right which is not rated PG13 and the first bolt is 5ft over his head)





This one was more of a mixed / pg13 sport only route but a ton of bolts have been added so now it is really safe.



This is where the first bolt used to be.



Another easy but high first bolt (most put gear in the crack halfway up)



I don't really think these routes need extra bolts because there is areas to put gear. But at stone there are some starting bolts 30ft up with zero possibility of any kinda placement. This why pretty much everything at stone is PG13+

This one is called PG13+ / R- depending on who you ask, so not even X. 110ft 1 bolt.
mountainproject.com/v/10671937...
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
181 points
Dec 25, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
Jonny 5 wrote:
^^^^ ok I guess ignore my last two posts. I was only responding to the claim that all routes out west were are safe. I am only a beginner. It was my mistaken understanding that a "R" and/or "X" rating denoted a route with "unsafe fall" potential. Meaning risk of injury or death due to how the route protects. I am willing to admit this mistake is probably due to me being such a beginner. So if I am understanding correctly a route like Mercy Me would not receive a "R" rating in NC??? It would be considered safe?? I have to also ask wtf it takes in NC for a route to be considered "R" or god forbid "X" rated? Geez you NC guys are truly bold...

Virtually any slab climbing area that was established ground up will be the same, not just Stone Mtn. Glacier point apron in Yosemite and Tuolumne domes come to mind for areas out west and I'm sure there are many others. Stone Mtn is somewhat unique in NC because there are virtually no gear placements on the slabs. The routes were put in ground up and drilled on stance, so the bolts ended up being far apart, even more so when climbing on easy ground. Even other slab areas in NC (Looking GLass, Laurel Knob) tend to have a bit more gear/features, although not always. Most other NC areas (read:non-slab) protect quite well.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
218 points
Dec 25, 2013
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to ...
Merry Chrismas y'all. The thing about stone is, everything is an "understood" runout. Nothing there is well protected, with the exception of the great arch and no alternative because they follow the only crack systems on the south face. Haven't done fantastic and fleet feet so I don't know about those so much. This thread is making me want to go scare myself again! Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Joined May 20, 2007
719 points
Dec 25, 2013
Flatirons
Jonny 5 wrote:
^^^^ ok I guess ignore my last two posts. I was only responding to the claim that all routes out west were are safe. I am only a beginner. It was my mistaken understanding that a "R" and/or "X" rating denoted a route with "unsafe fall" potential. Meaning risk of injury or death due to how the route protects. I am willing to admit this mistake is probably due to me being such a beginner. So if I am understanding correctly a route like Mercy Me would not receive a "R" rating in NC??? It would be considered safe?? I have to also ask wtf it takes in NC for a route to be considered "R" or god forbid "X" rated? Geez you NC guys are truly bold...


Top notch troll post. Possibly best of the thread.
Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
Dec 26, 2013
Adam Paashaus wrote:
Merry Chrismas y'all. The thing about stone is, everything is an "understood" runout. Nothing there is well protected, with the exception of the great arch and no alternative because they follow the only crack systems on the south face. Haven't done fantastic and fleet feet so I don't know about those so much. This thread is making me want to go scare myself again!


Adam if you get a chance definitely give Fantastic and Fleet Feet a shot. Or at least the first pitches of both. Fleet Feet is not scary at all and is quite nice with only a touch of slab climbing and is one of the best protected climbs at Stone.

The first pitch of Fantastic is IMHO not just the best pitch at Stone but one of the best 5.9 pitches in the state. You get crack, face, flake and slab climbing all on the same pitch. That being said it's stout 5.9 all the way and while the first 80 feet are well protected the last 20 can get a bit exciting.
Emil Briggs
Joined Sep 30, 2013
128 points
Dec 26, 2013
Here is an excerpt taken from Dave Smith's 1976, Wasatch Granite:

II. Bolts
The use of bolts has allowed some very fine climbs on the smooth and often crackless granite of the area. However, in recent years, a number of new bolts have been placed on older routes that have been done many times over a number of years. The "S-Crack" route on The Thumb provides an excellent example. First done in 1964 without the use of bolts, it was still free of them when I first did it in 1970. By 1972 when we did the first clean ascnt, three unnecessary bolts had been placed. Two of these bolts were placed to avoid climbing the chimney on the second potch. While this chimney is hard (F8), one can arrange an upper belay for the hardest part. The other bolt was placed at the start of the third pitch to avoid having to use an A2 pin or nut right off the belay ledge. In 1974 anothher bolt was added to the route. It was placed in the middle of the beautiful fourth pitch, adjacent to a bombproof fixed pin and next to a crack that easily takes either pins or nuts. By 1976, two more bolts had been added to the third pitch. With the use of aid from these bolts it is possible to avoid the exciting pendulum altogether. Thus, a route done many times over a period of some eight years without bolts is now descrated with six unnecessary bolts placed by climbers who had not learned that bolting is done only as a substitute for climbing. Given enough time and enough bolts any rock face may be climbed. Bolts which are necessary have been in place on existing routes for years. Please, DO NOT place bolts on existing routes. The converse of this is also true. Once a bolt has been placed, nothing is accomplished by chopping it. The rock cannot be restored to its natural state and a chopped bolt generally gives birth to a new bolt. Thus, once a bolt is in place, regardless of how senseless or useless its placing, resist the urge to chop it.
Brendan Mulhern
Joined Mar 8, 2011
44 points
Dec 26, 2013
Where's Waldo?
That should incite a whole new slew of comments!! Provactive! Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
215 points


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