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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Luke Childers
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/Fall
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Climb past 4 bolts to the under side of a roof. H...
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is getting into the bottom of the roof and jamming your way right to gain a right-facing corner stem. Then you get a classic roof traverse exit.


Location 

This is on Left Wire crag in the middle of the crag. It ascends a slab with 4 bolts to a hanging, right-facing dihedral.


Protection 

5 bolts (Cams #0.75-#2) and some long runners to avoid rope drag.



Photos of Addicts Slideshow Add Photo
Dave decides to try it the harder, left version. <br /> <br />FWIW, the right version uses the palm smears/underclings in line with the right end of the rope at the slight overhang.
Dave decides to try it the harder, left version.

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By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2010

I tried this today at the end of the day thinking it wouldn't be too hard. I don't think many people climb this at all since holds were breaking and lots of large flakes could easily be pulled off. After the last bolt to the roof, the reach to the crack is really long and you are on questionable edges that might easily break. I found it very challenging to get a cam in with my reach (granted, I am shorter than most). Once you do get a hand jam in, it is very solid, but all the feet are crap, holds are breaking, and there is lichen on everything.

This felt much harder to me than several of the sport 5.11s in Clear Creak. Perhaps if it were cleaner, it would have felt better, but I would say it isn't comparable to other 10a's in Clear Creek.... Much harder than No Fruit next to it or People's Choice over at High Wire. Maybe a 10a by Eldo standards. Perhaps a hold below the roof broke off, or the people calling it 10a are just tall.

By Luke Childers
Apr 8, 2010

I put this line up many years ago, and I can understand what you are saying about the height issue. I am 6 ft and I felt the line is maybe 10+? Yet, I wonder. It is probably still quite dirty as you say and this never make for an clean ascent. I don't think these lines get much attention. So, how hard will need more traffic and more options before it really settles down. Anyway, I enjoyed putting this line in so many years ago. A cool little roof and stem section. I hope others will stop by and enjoy.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 9, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a classic mixed line! I will admit the move getting to the first jam in the roof are a stretch. Also to place the #2 Camalot. Great vision, Luke!

By Luke Childers
Apr 9, 2010

Thanks, man!!! I too feel this is a good line. Worth doing if you're in the mixed route market.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a good route that has 2 options at the crux. The up and left version is longer and harder. The right version utilizes some palm smear/underclings that seem improbable, but they get you up to reach the left hand jam at 5'10" +2" ape. Yeah, it is still a bit friable. The anchor could use 2 separate links to thread to calm feathered nerves.

By Dougald MacDonald
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

At 5'10" this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route.