Adderall Space Cowboy
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British C1
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Richard Barrett, Solo |
Page Views: | 863 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Light .50 on Feb 15, 2015 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is a fine line on solid sandstone. The first half of the route is trad. The route starts on a low angle slab transitioning into vertical terrain relatively quickly. The crack is straight forward, not to difficult and takes gear well. The route transitions into a groove after about 50 of climbing that does not yield pro so, its protected by bolts. At this point the route is significantly steeper. This is probably the crux of the route. Small shallow pockets in the groove, solid edges and some delicate foot work will lead to a two bolt anchor exactly 100 of the deck.
Location
The route is located just 5 - 10 minutes from the Cottonwood Wash pull out on the south side of the canyon; Left side of the river bed if youre facing up canyon. It is fairly easy to recognize. UTM Grid location (12 S 0548341 4325581)
Protection
Tricams 1.5 - 2.5 are useful for the start. I would recommend small to medium nuts, TCUs or Master Cams #0 -#4, and Camalots .4 - #3. A #4 Camalot (Optional) might be useful to protect the transition from the crack to the groove depending on how willing the leader is to run it out before reaching the first bolt. The groove is protected by 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. 1 60M cord will do.
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