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Add Libs 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
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this photo shows Add Libs and Sayonara. The photo ...

Description 

The detached slab came off a year after the ascent. How to start and finish it are the same. Begin on the friction ramp using the tip of a tree branch hung near to the ground for aid up to the shallow ceiling cornered cracks (5.7+). Then I walked across the dirt ramp to climb the 30ft table slab leaning on the cliff. After that moved right above the slab to veer off left to get to a nice strenuous sustained moderate (5-6) shallow corner crack (small off sized cams (aliens) might work in this crack but having none I didn't get any placements) and before this corner crack a decent white birch tree for pro. Above this crack I got in a leaper pin. From here easily climb up to the same belay, rappel station of the 'British We’re Coming'.


Location 

left of a the climb called the British We’re Coming and right of the end of Cannonade Buttress. Look for the ramp with a birch tree above it. After tree are ceiling cracks. after cracks is a long tree filled corner.


Protection 

1 fixed pin, trad rack and the bottom and top of the climb are still connectable after finishing the ceiling moves go up to a wide groove left to a short head wall (5-6) and move right to finish up corner crack. Be careful of rope drag.



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Add Libs in pink line and Syanora in blue line.
BETA PHOTO: Add Libs in pink line and Syanora in blue line.
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