|Right Side Gully
|Type: ||Sport, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||871|
|Submitted By: ||Matthew Fienup on Dec 11, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Romain enters the challenging crux sequence of "Ad...
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Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.
One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.
Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.
Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.
CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.
BETA PHOTO: Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capital...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Adaptive Expectations
Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations," at the...
Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expe...
|By Romain Wacziarg|
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
There is another distinct crux encounter at the 6th bolt. This is a fun route!
Apr 5, 2010
This a great route also. good line, good grade, great for the area. climb it if you come here ok