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 ADVANCED
Right Side Gully
Select Route:
Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Adaptive Expectations 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 11, 2007

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Romain enters the challenging crux sequence of "Ad...

Description 

Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.

One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.


Location 

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.

Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.

CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.



Photos of Adaptive Expectations Slideshow Add Photo
Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capitalism and Freedom. All but the first bolt are shown in this picture.
BETA PHOTO: Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capital...
Route topo for Adaptive Expectations
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Adaptive Expectations
Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations," at the Fortress.
Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations," at the...
Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expectations, at the Fortress.
Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expe...
Comments on Adaptive Expectations Add Comment
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By Romain Wacziarg
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is another distinct crux encounter at the 6th bolt. This is a fun route!

By staem
Apr 5, 2010

This a great route also. good line, good grade, great for the area. climb it if you come here ok