Adaptive Expectations  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Matthew Fienup on Dec 11, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Adaptive Expectations

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Description 

Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.

One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.

Location 

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.

Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.

CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.

Photos of Adaptive Expectations Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capital...	Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations," at the...	Romain enters the challenging crux sequence of "Ad...
Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expe...