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Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD S 
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Return From the Great Mormon Experience S 
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Space Hog S 
Takin it to the Street S 
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Youth is Beauty S 
Unsorted Routes:

Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 4/3/2012, Fred AmRhein and Christopher Bastek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: Fred AmRhein on Apr 4, 2012

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The FA on his work. Nice looking line Fred!

Description 

Bouldery start onto a technical face and up various interesting bulge-like features. Pull over last bulge on dark, solid rock. A bit crispy in spots due to newness. Belaying off of the large boulder at the bottom is possible once the leader is well off the ground. It can be started from the direct bottom via the jug or by traversing in from around the corner to the left; same rating either way.

Location 

Line of bolts on the far west (left when looking at the wall) end of the huge Bartuni Wall, left of Mona Lisa. The Big Weld Show is around the corner to the left.

Protection 

11 bolts and chains at the top. CAUTION: This route is long, 95' or so, use at least a 60 meter rope! STICK CLIPPING the first bolt is recommended due to the fall and tumble potential at that point along the cliff line.


Comments on Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD Add Comment
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By Molieri
Dec 30, 2012

Tried this route today, and broke of a large chunk of rock just below the first bolt(possibly the jug mentioned in the description?). I bailed mid-way up, because most of the route was pretty crumbly. Pieces of the rock were breaking off in my hands, and it looked like some other holds had broken off previously. From what I did, it felt a lot harder than .11a in its current state.
By Fred AmRhein
Jan 9, 2013

Bummer about the large jug.

I'd definitely re-emphasize the use of a stick clip for the first moves, even if the jug is (partly?) still there.

It's admittedly still crumbly; I was on it a few weeks ago and had pocket edges continuing to give a bit here and there.

Like neighboring routes on Bartuni AF PhD has its challenges also. Next time I'm on it I'll work it over again and try to clean it up some more. It's definitely a stiff climb at 11a and ratings are by consensus so only time will tell where it will settle in.

Fred