|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 95'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||4/3/2012, Fred AmRhein and Christopher Bastek|
|Submitted By:||Fred AmRhein on Apr 4, 2012|
|Comments on Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 30, 2012
|Tried this route today, and broke of a large chunk of rock just below the first bolt(possibly the jug mentioned in the description?). I bailed mid-way up, because most of the route was pretty crumbly. Pieces of the rock were breaking off in my hands, and it looked like some other holds had broken off previously. From what I did, it felt a lot harder than .11a in its current state.|
By Fred AmRhein
Jan 9, 2013
Bummer about the large jug.
I'd definitely re-emphasize the use of a stick clip for the first moves, even if the jug is (partly?) still there.
It's admittedly still crumbly; I was on it a few weeks ago and had pocket edges continuing to give a bit here and there.
Like neighboring routes on Bartuni AF PhD has its challenges also. Next time I'm on it I'll work it over again and try to clean it up some more. It's definitely a stiff climb at 11a and ratings are by consensus so only time will tell where it will settle in.