Mountain Project Logo

Adam Ondra: "Any climber with mediocre stregnth can climb at least V8 given perfect technique" Thoughts?

Original Post
JeremiahJohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

What do you think? What constitutes perfect technique? How far can technique alone carry you?

Altered Ego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Technique+repetition=V8 for average climbers.

Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11

Depends on what "mediocre strength" is.

B-dog · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 30

Do you have a link to where this was said?

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I'm not convinced Adam Ondra is an authority on those of us with mediocre (or worse) strength.

But it's encouraging.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

Assuming he means some and not all V8s

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Slabs ok.. Bouldering what?

I could see that statement holding true for slab climbing where you don't need strength but good technique. I've taken a few very strong gym climbers up slabby routes. They thought the combo of no holds and no pro was suicide.

Bouldering on the other hand takes strength and technique.

Matt Wilson · · Vermont, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 316
Pontoon wrote:Assuming he means some and not all V8s
Agreed. Some V8s are all about your grip strength, while others are all about technique, with plenty in between.
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I am a climber of mediocre strength and I am definitely not capable of drinking V8. That stuff is nasty, even with perfect technique.

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

If he knew how fat my belly was he might think again.

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

He might be right with perfect technique, but it's all academic because nobody ever has exactly perfect technique. I may be middle aged, weak, and barely able to do a V5 in the gym, but it's still more likely that I'll buff up and fight my way through a V8 than that my technique will improve to where I can float through one like a butterfly.

KevinRTR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

I can agree with this. I have a beer belly, can bareley do 10 pull ups / 25 push ups in a row but have topped out two or three v8s. yes, one of them was a slab.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Or maybe that V8 isn't really a V8...

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Well, I've got decent technique but I can't send V8.

I think he's getting a little beyond himself.

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

I might be strong, but with a poor body fat ratio, my fingers will break before I could possibly send a v8. So 'strength' means nothing for me :)

M. G. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

I'd agree if he'd said V5...maybe.
I think he's a bit out of touch with the common wo/man.
There's a lot about 'perfect technique' that directly correlates to strength.
It's definitely worth thinking about though...and his general point is valid.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Adam Ondra can say anything he wants.

Doesn't make it true.

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

Or how about this: It takes quite a bit of strength to execute perfect technique. Think body tension.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

My guess is that Adam Ondra is uniquely qualified to have absolutely no clue what really constitutes "mediocre strength."

James Willis · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined May 2013 · Points: 165

I think everyone is taking his comment too literally. I read it to say "Most people are strong enough to climb a lot harder than they do, they just need to improve their technique."

Who Dat · · Spinning Rock, MW · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 5
B-dog wrote:Do you have a link to where this was said?
...Anyone?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
Post a Reply to "Adam Ondra: "Any climber with mediocre stregnth…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.