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Utopia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 
Qebehsenuef T,S 
S=k log W T,S 
Spear of Destiny T 
Terma T 
Tjurunga T 

Adam-Ondi-Ahman 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: Skyler Penrod on May 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Hand Crack leading into the fingers

Description 

Follow obvious splitter up the river facing side of the fallen block that Tjurunga climbs. Starts offwidth and slowly works its way to less than tips. There are many face holds that make this crack much easier than if you were to only climb the crack system itself.

Start in the offwidth with a flake and work your way up solid jams and brittle feet until you get into great fist jams that slowly work into hands. When the crack tightens down to tight hands you have to a short well protected traverse with okay holds and no feet. Look for the hidden holds in the pod and pull up to the finger crack. climb balancy moves until you get to the less than tips crack and can grab the arete on the left. There are several options at this point as to what way to go. Several more moves gains the anchor. If you want there is a hidden bolt on the back side of the capstone above the anchor that gains access to the summit cap.

Location 

Follow the slowly establishing trail up the talus and climb the obvious splitter on the fallen block that is just right of where the trail lets out. This route shares the same anchors as Tjurunga. If you look to your left you should see the Spear of Destiny.

Protection 

I would recommend bringing (in tcu's): 1 purple, 1 blue, 3 yellow, 3 orange (.5 Camalot might be better). The rest of the rack would be at least 1 .75 BD, 2 #1BD, 2 or 3 #2BD, 2 #3BD (I would trade one for a #4 friend), 2 #4BD and 1 #5BD. The rack goes almost in order from big to small.


Photos of Adam-Ondi-Ahman Slideshow Add Photo
the route
the route
Exiting the off width
BETA PHOTO: Exiting the off width
Carnage from a broken foothold entering the fist section
BETA PHOTO: Carnage from a broken foothold entering the fist s...
Leaving the fists and entering the hands
BETA PHOTO: Leaving the fists and entering the hands
climb right side of photo, outer face crack
climb right side of photo, outer face crack

Comments on Adam-Ondi-Ahman Add Comment
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By Skyler Penrod
May 21, 2012

Kudos to Paul for finding this area and having the will power to haul our butts up there. Double Kudos for the putting the time and effort into funding and installing the hardware.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

thanks sky and good job on the sharp end. felt like 10+ on the follow. i had a chance to work it a bit before hand so the 11- is probably going to be about right. fear not. easy to top rope by climbing tjurunga first. great classic splitter with crazy moves mixed in. the route takes the left crack system to the anchors. there is an escape right crack that takes you to the upper part of tjurunga. not to gear intensive since the crack goes from big to small so your typical desert rack is not needed. the mandatory splitter in the area.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Oct 17, 2012

Really fun crack that goes through all the sizes. Had that new route feel (aka breaking holds) Well protected throughout and an interesting lead!
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

if dana did it free and clean the ffa goes to you as far as i know since we had a couple hangs and falls on the fa.