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East Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adagio T 
Adam's Rib T 
Beyond The Abyss S 
Block Party S 
Chestnut T 
Fun Park S 
Goldrush S 
Moondance S 
Neve Climb On S 
Northern Lights T,S 
Powder in the Sky T 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 
Slot Right Step Left T 
Slot, The T 
Sugar Mama T 
Yellow Latex Blues S 
Yorkey's Crumpet T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: [Bill Kees, Royal Robbins, 1978]
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006

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To find this climb, look for a large dead tree trunk at the base of the East Buttress on a ledge above the talus. Belay on this ledge.

The climb follows a right-facing corner up towards a small roof. Climb this corner, with difficult beginning moves, up to the small roof, skirt this on its right side and continue up cracks to easier ground above. A tree, up and left with slings on it, is the shortest option for ending the climb. Another option is to continue up to the top of cliff by following a crack up another short steep step. If taken to the top, 2 ropes or 2 rappels are needed to get down. Another option is to walk downhill (climber's right) to the 4th class descent.

The climb protects well with mostly small gear, but the cracks are discontinuous, so it isn't always available.


Single set of cams, single set of stoppers.

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