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Ad Astra Per Aspera
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.2 from 27
votes
Routes in Willard
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Ad Astra Per Aspera T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Air to Spare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Austrian Economics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raging Waters WI3-4 |
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Southwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Ridge of the Ogre: Ogre Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Willard Canyon Waterfall T WI2-3 |
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Win Bigly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Pete Vanslooten, Rob Candland, Shayne Durfee, Troy Anderson |
| Page Views: | 4,520 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Oct 11, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
PITCH ONE Climb easy terrain to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge (50' ish)
PITCH TWO Climb the crack left of the anchor to a few bolts.
After the second bolt arch left around a small corner and clip another bolt. Note: this is where I "wimped" out and avoided the good climbing by arching left to easier terrain. After clipping this bolt, make your way straight up to a giant ledge with a bolted anchor. We named this RED LEDGE because of the Giant red band of rock visible from Willard.
PITCH THREE Start up and right of the belay about 15 feet. Climb and arch left past some cam placements to bolts leading through a steep red face directly above the belay.
This is the crux for the route. It has bolts where you want and doesn't have bolts where you also want them. After arching up and left past bolts, climb left (north) for a few feet, then travel straight up past a few fixed pitons to a bolted belay.
PITCH FOUR The fourth pitch gains a big ledge then climbs straight above the belay. About 12-15 feet up, there is a great horn to sling, then a bolt, piton, and a bolt to a small ledge with a bolted anchor.
If you are in doubt of where to start the first pitch, look high and you'll see the bolts in a clean face. At the end of pitch five arch left (north) to the anchor.
PITCH FIVE Climb up a left to a fixed pin. Ascend straight up past more fixed pins and finish out a small roof crack. Above the roof, clip and anchor and continue to the summit!
DESCENT Rappel the route with 70m rope
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