Action Directe  5.14d

2,953 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.14d [details] FA:  Wolfgang Güllich, 14 Sept. 1991 Submitted By:  MPuser10840 on Jun 10, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Wolfgang Güllich on his masterpiece

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura.

This route was the world's first 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this for this climb.

Here's the list of people who have redpointed this brutal route (from Wikipedia):
1.1991 – Wolfgang Güllich, Germany
2.1995 – Alexander Adler, Germany
3.2000 – Iker Pou, Spain
4.2001 – Dave Graham, USA
5.2003 – Christian Bindhammer, Germany
X.2005 – Richard Simpson, Great Britain
[Simpson claimed to have sent this but this now appears to be a lie]
6.2005 – Dai Koyamada, Japan
7.2005 – Markus Bock, Germany
8.2006 – Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
9.2008 – Adam Ondra, Czech Republic
10.2008 – Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, Spain
11.2010 – Gabriele Moroni, Italy
12.2010 – Jan Hojer, Germany
13.2010 – Adam Pustelnik, Poland
14.2011 – Felix Knaub, Germany
15.2012 – Rustam Gelmanov, Russia

Location 

Left-most route on the formation.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor

Photos of Action Directe Slideshow

Add Photo

Adam Ondra making the 10th ascent of this insanely...