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Routes in Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall
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Act or React T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Breakup Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Brother O T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fallout Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fission Quest T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friction Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fukushima Release T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Full Cavity Search T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manifesto T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Meltdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mental fitness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Monticello Cop Shop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Numbing the Tip...aka unknown 28 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O The Big Black Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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On the Rocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peg Leg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Road Block T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rope Around Yer Ankle AKA (Noose Up) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stubby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Fingers in Left Facing Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Violator, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yellow Cake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,450 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Nov 11, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
I spotted a very faint route name scratched into the rock just right of the start. I could make out something like: Actor Reactor or Act or React..
Excellent hand crack with powerful and steep start. Difficulties drop considerably afterwards with cruiser hands, big feet holds, and a couple of pods. Decent warm-up after the initial bulge. Anchors are set a bit far back on the ledge. Easy enough to hang a TR on Violater to the right from this ledge.
Beware of how/where you place cams after the bulge. There is a stuck #2 like 4 ft back in the crack that most likely got pushed back by the rope due to the angle change. Clean every piece on the way down.
Excellent hand crack with powerful and steep start. Difficulties drop considerably afterwards with cruiser hands, big feet holds, and a couple of pods. Decent warm-up after the initial bulge. Anchors are set a bit far back on the ledge. Easy enough to hang a TR on Violater to the right from this ledge.
Beware of how/where you place cams after the bulge. There is a stuck #2 like 4 ft back in the crack that most likely got pushed back by the rope due to the angle change. Clean every piece on the way down.
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