Across the Universe 

Maybe I'm being too harsh, but 4 stars ? Sure the Milky Way pitch is cool but not that awesome and the rest of the climb is o.k. Still, nice exposure and good rock

How much trad placements are on this by the sounds of it alot is bolted but run out is that correct?

I believe the lone bolt on pitch three might be a pin. A fun route with excellent exposure.

if its not a bolt anymore than it got chopped, I'm pretty shure it was a bolt as I worked right down the street and climbed this route more times than I can remember in 2006-2008.

I know a strange comparison but- the milky way pitch is kinda like Crest Jewel in the Valley. Except CJ is 1,200' long and better.

Climbed this route 8/13/11. Before the traverse on pitch 3 is a good bolt. I got in a small tricam after the bolt in an upwards facing flake. Because we only had one rope (oops !) We did the final pitch, then through the woods to the upper tier. Final pitch is easy terrain but very mossy, and would be a nightmare if wet. Run it out and girth hitch some sad little trees for psychological protection, traverse left through munge to a big tree with a yellow static rope and rap rings. Nice adventure.

I climbed this route with my buddy Bruce today. A few thoughts: The first pitch is fun and even more fun if you start at the very bottom of te toes of the rock and make it a longer pitch. The crux P2 seems significantly harder than .10a, unless I missed something. P3 is a fun runout slab, there is a pin in the middle of the climb and a bolt for protection on the traverse. The Milky Way pitch (P4) is fantastic but not as hard as was originally expected. The 5th pitch to the trees is runout and scary if it is wet (as it was today). We continued up the route Salespitch 5.9 to bring us to the summit.
Overall this is a fantastic rock climb the only downside in my opinion is the P2 crux which seems contrived since, A. it would go much easier to the right and B. it is such a drastic and weird change from the feel of the rest of the route. Great climb though!

I don't usually have a problem on a 10a. Either the crux move has some secret hold or sequence that I haven't figured out or it is one of the biggest sandbags in the White Mountains.

Should be 9+ (which i said on the 2nd ascent) It helps to be tall and move your feet before your hands. I know a pretty prominent NH climber who has YET to do this move first try... and he's done the climb at least 10 times!

You say it should be 9+ but you are you the only one who knows how to get over it at 9+? Are you 6'5"? Your prominent NH friend can't get over it first try and many of my friends who are solid 11 climbers also can't get through the move clean. Does that make sense to you? Let me know next time you are going to do it so I can come watch and I will know how do do it at 9+. I know a few local North Conway climbers who agree with me that it is a sandbag.

Laugh a bit dude.. it's OK. no i'm not 6'5". A "5.11" climber to me is someone who can climb almost any 5.11, not just specific routes.

I have done Across enough times.. not quite worth a 2,000 mile drive.

Given the one move wonder and well protected nature of the sequence, i'm suprised that it didn't get 9+ in the first place.

Did you do it again after your first time ???

Come on Brian.. it's me.. you loadies would have never even given this move a rating in the Woods. Whitey would have said '5.8"

The "prominent NH local" is Al Rubin

Yeah but I'm getting old... Maybe I'll bring Whitey up there and he can show me the move. Out of multiple tries, I got it once and it was a desperation move off of a reachy crimp. Once I had a hard-climbing young-gun Lincoln Woods boulderer (Sean Robar) with me and he grabbed the draw after peeling off backwards. Not a 5.9+ for me.