Across The Universe 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Ken Klis |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Mar 4, 2006 |
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Jon Hanlon taking a rest at the crux.
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Description A fine line up the sunny side of the Eastern Summit Block. Start just right of Flakes to Fresno, finding the path of least resistance around an awkward block. Traverse up and left past 2 bolts on reasonably solid rock. Crank through the small, but tricky roof (11a crux), passing a 3rd bolt. Easier face climbing up a vertical seam and 3 more bolts to the top.
Location Across The Universe is the bolted line immediately right of Flakes to Fresno.
Protection 6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. An optional hand-size cam will protect opening moves getting to the first bolt.
Jon Hanlon past the crux and cruising the 5.9 fini...
| A fine day Across the Universe (.11a) Photo court...
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| Comments on Across The Universe |
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By Ryan Nevius From: San Luis Obispo, CA Feb 22, 2013 rating: 5.10+
| The bottom section of this route seemed really contrived and the top was really loose (my partner had a softball-sized hold break off in her hand at the last bolt). The best climbing happens between the "roof" and bolt #5 and is the only reason I'd say the route is worth a lap. |
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