2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral. To date, I have heard of no specific name to these crags. So, I will call these Across from the Bihedral. Addendum: apparently some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag this year (2009).
Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here. Also, lying largely less explored (formerly), these provide some room for the exploratory types, though, the quality may not be completely consistent. Lichens and mosses used to enjoy nooks and cracks here.
A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter. The eastern buttress (150 feet high) contains routes: Whodathunkit, Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, and Lichenthrope. These had previously been listed under the Bihedral. There are still plenty of rocks to explore in this canyon....
In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.
To the energized bolter(s), please remove the retrobolts.
Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.
The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.
This is currently the farthest left line. It has 3 bolts and probably 5.9 climbers might want additional traditional pro, but it can be led as a 5.8+/5.9 (5.6 R) climb without.Go up and find a brief crux between bolts 1 & 2. Some folks find no crux moves here. Find easy terrain with wide fingers cracks for protection. Some folks find the crux to be near the 3rd bolt. Clip a final bolt and reach for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.This had been given a name within the database, but someone...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
You may be talking about the Sherwood Forest and the Lost Flatiron. Both of which are listed in the Rossiter book on Boulder Canyon. Sherwood Forest is located across from the Riviera and the Bihedral. The Lost Flatiron is higher on the hill and has some gear routes.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 16, 2003
Dear AC, sorry it was not clearer. This area is still upstream from both the more-travelled Lost Flatiron & Sherwood Forest. Close though. Probably the next big pullout for cars upstream from Sherwood. You can see Truth or Consequences from this pullout. It is probably just a touch upstream from Bihedral. Wee bit more obscure.
I was there today. The creator was there; he gave us the 2 minute tour. Most of the climbs were 50 to 80 feet long. It was shady and busy. I found it a bit confusing since climbs are close, but nothing is desperate, so it didn't make much difference. Every route I did had some good moves and I had a lot of fun. (Everyone there was having fun.) Maybe we should get the names listed, so it's less confusing? The longest route there was a right-trending trad route starting just rt of the 3rd bolted line from the left, in a rt-facing dihedral.
Maybe we could drop the Unknown from all the routes? It is a little confusing. Even if we are not 100% on the names, anything is better than Unknown.... Bummer about the retro-bolts, but aside from that, it's not a bad crag. Maybe a few too many anchors, seems like some could be shared.... But I do appreciate the hooks. Thanks for that... makes cleaning a snap.
Amen Ed- I have been to this crag 3 times this year and had a blast each time. It is nice to have another summer crag like this one that is easy to get to and has many moderates for my son and his friends!!! Thanks to whomever the so called "energized bolters" are as I know that you put in a ton of hard work on this once was mossy and chossy pile o'doody. Cheers-Pat and Family
Nice crag; good rock; fun and shady. Better than I expected after the negative vibes and retrobolting complaints in the description. Ok, some of the lines are close together and initially hard to read which route is which. And there are a few stray bolts that don't make much sense. But the "retrobolting" I saw was largely protecting face climbing that otherwise would be unprotected runout in the trad routes.
The broken Tyrolean "treestand" is laying on the ground now, which makes the landing consist of 2 limbs (one broken) and 2 ropes. While it isn't a big deal going into the crag, the return trip might be a little sketchy for a non-climber type. Something to keep in mind if you plan on going to this nice "beginner" crag.
I would be willing to help someone figure out a way to get a platform back out there as this traverse serves a couple great crags.
Although the tree stand is still "broken", the climb down is simple: there is a rope there and still two good 'step limbs'. We hauled a dog over there today and easily passed/lowered her. Decent climbs, good texture on the rock, most cruxes seem to have "tricky" feet.
The "Unknown" preceding the names of all of these routes is silly at this point and should be removed. It makes sorting them out difficult, particularly on the mobile app (where the full names aren't displayed until you click on them individually).