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 ADVANCED
Cascade Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Californication S 
Crack Where Sun Don't Shine, The T,TR 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
Fire and Rain T 
Firestarter S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
Rain Check S 
Rain Delay S 
Respect T,S 
Reunion S 
Side Dish T 
Smallville S 
Spooked S 
Summer Nights S 
Thunderhead S 
Unknown Slab to Arete S 
Weeds S 
Whodathunkit T,TR 

Cascade Crag  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,800'
Location: 40.0025, -105.3974 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,020
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003  with updates from Baumer and 2 more
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Shot from the top of Happy Hour Crag Sept. 2011. I...

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Description 

There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral. To date, I have heard of no specific name to these crags. So, I will call these Across from the Bihedral. Addendum: apparently some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag this year (2009).

Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here. Also, lying largely less explored (formerly), these provide some room for the exploratory types, though, the quality may not be completely consistent. Lichens and mosses used to enjoy nooks and cracks here.

A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter. The eastern buttress (150 feet high) contains routes: Whodathunkit, Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, and Lichenthrope. These had previously been listed under the Bihedral. There are still plenty of rocks to explore in this canyon....

In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.

To the energized bolter(s), please remove the retrobolts.

Of the new bolted routes sampled so far, Loyalty, 9-; Lightning Strike, 11-; and Thunderhead, 10, are recommended.

L->R: (in progress)

A. Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
B. Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
C. Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Retrobolted.
E1. Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.
E2. Rain Delay, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts
F1. Whodathunkit, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 140', gear. Retrobolted.
F2. Firestarter, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
GF. Fire and Rain, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts (black hangers).
HG. Firestarter, 10+, 1p, 90', (beige hangers).
I. Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts
J1. Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.
K. Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.
M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.
N. Unknown Slab to Arete, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?

Northwest aspect

O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
O2. Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
P1. Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
P2. Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.
P3. Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.
R. Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
SR. Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
T. Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
U. Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.
V. Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.

There are 3 more crags above this crag....

Getting There 

Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.

The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Crag:
Loyalty   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Rain Check   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Spooked   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Fire and Rain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Whodathunkit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 180'   
Respect   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Thunderhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Quick Silver   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Full Respect   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Rain Delay   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lightning Strike   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Cascade Crag

Featured Route For Cascade Crag
Route is the obvious crack going up the center.

Californication 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Boulder Canyon : Cascade Crag
On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral. This goes up the left start with the 3 bolts.Start onto a micro rib with a crux at the beginning. After the 3rd bolt, move into the dihedral with traditional pro and finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You could continue this past another bolt to a 75' anchor with Mussy hooks.Others have provided a name, Californication. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Cascade Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.
BETA PHOTO: Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.
Climbin' at Cascade Crag.
Climbin' at Cascade Crag.

Comments on Cascade Crag Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2003
You may be talking about the Sherwood Forest and the Lost Flatiron. Both of which are listed in the Rossiter book on Boulder Canyon. Sherwood Forest is located across from the Riviera and the Bihedral. The Lost Flatiron is higher on the hill and has some gear routes.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 16, 2003
Dear AC, sorry it was not clearer. This area is still upstream from both the more-travelled Lost Flatiron & Sherwood Forest. Close though. Probably the next big pullout for cars upstream from Sherwood. You can see Truth or Consequences from this pullout. It is probably just a touch upstream from Bihedral. Wee bit more obscure.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 16, 2003
I've used this pullout to park for the "Inca Stone" in the past.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2010
I was there today. The creator was there; he gave us the 2 minute tour. Most of the climbs were 50 to 80 feet long. It was shady and busy. I found it a bit confusing since climbs are close, but nothing is desperate, so it didn't make much difference. Every route I did had some good moves and I had a lot of fun. (Everyone there was having fun.) Maybe we should get the names listed, so it's less confusing? The longest route there was a right-trending trad route starting just rt of the 3rd bolted line from the left, in a rt-facing dihedral.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 18, 2011
Maybe we could drop the Unknown from all the routes? It is a little confusing. Even if we are not 100% on the names, anything is better than Unknown....
Bummer about the retro-bolts, but aside from that, it's not a bad crag. Maybe a few too many anchors, seems like some could be shared.... But I do appreciate the hooks. Thanks for that... makes cleaning a snap.
By pat thompson
From: superior
Oct 15, 2011
Amen Ed- I have been to this crag 3 times this year and had a blast each time. It is nice to have another summer crag like this one that is easy to get to and has many moderates for my son and his friends!!!
Thanks to whomever the so called "energized bolters" are as I know that you put in a ton of hard work on this once was mossy and chossy pile o'doody. Cheers-Pat and Family
By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2012
FYI, the tree stand for the tyrolean is broken (7/12/12). Also, there is a death block to the right of Reunion that is quite loose.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Sep 3, 2012
Nice crag; good rock; fun and shady. Better than I expected after the negative vibes and retrobolting complaints in the description. Ok, some of the lines are close together and initially hard to read which route is which. And there are a few stray bolts that don't make much sense. But the "retrobolting" I saw was largely protecting face climbing that otherwise would be unprotected runout in the trad routes.
By Joshinator
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 6, 2012
Pretty decent crag with fun climbs. Deserves a better page than this. Drop all the "unknown" stuff. Maybe MP needs to get off its high horse.
By Jason Watts
From: Boulder,CO
May 11, 2013
The broken Tyrolean "treestand" is laying on the ground now, which makes the landing consist of 2 limbs (one broken) and 2 ropes. While it isn't a big deal going into the crag, the return trip might be a little sketchy for a non-climber type. Something to keep in mind if you plan on going to this nice "beginner" crag.

I would be willing to help someone figure out a way to get a platform back out there as this traverse serves a couple great crags.
By goingUp
From: over here
Jun 11, 2013
Although the tree stand is still "broken", the climb down is simple: there is a rope there and still two good 'step limbs'. We hauled a dog over there today and easily passed/lowered her. Decent climbs, good texture on the rock, most cruxes seem to have "tricky" feet.
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 4, 2014
Does anyone know of a decent guide book or other resouce for this crag? D'Antonio's book shows a vague photo (but good descriptions), and the MP site is uncharacteristically lacking in good beta photos.
There are bolts all over the place on this crag, & I find it difficult to sort out the routes....
By Brad Gone
Jun 25, 2015
Big thanks to the folks who put up the Mussy hooks at this crag!
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