This climb is the bolted route just to the left of Diagonal. Start up the face, clipping 3 bolts and eventually crossing the 5.9 crack (stoppers), until you hit this [commiting] roof) 5.11b/5.11c. Clip 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch, which is not within my range, is sustained 5.11hard and 5.12mod. 2 rappels seem feasible.
Just a few quick draws and some small nuts for the first pitch.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jul 15, 2005
The bulge on pitch 1 is definitely commiting although protection can be placed from a somewhat strenuous position in the [horizontal] crack before the mantle move. It's in the #0.75 Camalot range.
Jan 25, 2006
The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet.
|By Patrick Ackerson|
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 31, 2007
Pitch two - count on friction to get you to the second bolt, then move right (think small). Now move back left and catch a welcome three-fingertip hold that allows your feet some added friction. This is the crux. Pull it and finish with "Battle Forever More"; bring Metolius one to four, along with shoulder length slings for the this section.
Expect some high stepping onto matchstick holds.