|220 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||B. Gillett, C. Hill, E. Roslansky, 2002|
|Season: ||Faces SW. AM shade.|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Aug 19, 2012|
This is a great route with generally good stone and fantastic moves and position. A few more ascents will clean it up a little more still.
Acrophobia and Acrophelia share 2/3 of their climbing but follow different cruxes/finishes. Acrophilia requires large gear to protect. Arriving with no off-width gear and then seeing this set of climbs compelled us to do Acrophobia.
To do so, follow a set of discontinuous cracks from the left edge of this ledge. This starts in the far left-most, right-facing corner, NOT in the left-facing, lichenous corner a meter before that (dead end in lichen land). Climb up and right with good gear opportunities to and past a single bolt 40' up. Climb directly above the bolt on a long runner, then just above that, hand traverse directly right into the very bottom of a shallow, right-facing corner below the roof. Establish yourself here, and then punch up the corner. If you place gear here, walk it up or use long slings, or both. Arrive at good jams and rest just below the roof and get in some good gear with long slings in the corner and in the roof (hand-sized cams and a #3 Camalot). Big exposure awaits. Punch it out and left through the horizontal/diagonal crack in the roof and around the corner. Get up to a vertical hands-to-off-hands crack that leads to the top. Use slings on gear here since the anchor is out to the right and the crack has a high-friction right side. Rap ~100' to the ledge from the anchor. A 60m should be just fine.
This route lies near the left edge of the Acrophile. Access the base of the cliff and head left until you are below some massive roof systems 100' up or so. The climb going up a braided crack system to an shallow, hanging, right-facing dihedral at the edge of the right-most of these sets of roofs is Lithophyte.
Further left of there a rocky/grassy ramp and ledge system leads up and left under the roofs to the left of the Lithophyte roof.
Quick examination of these roofs to the left will reveal that one of them is bordered on its right side by a large offwidth above (this is Acrophelia), and split through the ledge back to center by a hand-to-fist crack coming out horizontally through that edge (this is Acrophobia). Climb up onto the rocky ledge/ramp and make your way left as far as you can.
Perhaps 6 meters before reaching the end of the ledge you will see a few bolts overhead by some features on the wall. This is the 5.11b alternate start of Acrophobia/Acrophelia. The traditional start is yet to your left.
A set of discontinuous cracks starting from the left edge of this ledge is the beginning of this route.
While the book suggests rack to an old #4 Camalot, I did not need/place the #4 in the meat of the climb. I admit to dumping it in 5.5 territory just before hitting the anchor up top to get my partner to carry it.
Personally I'd advise a standard rack to 3.5" up to a #3 Camalot will do just fine. Take an extra piece of each cam in the 2-3" range. The protection is all there and can be reasonably safe, but some skill with rope management will be needed for the sling-work to keep the drag off of you in this long and somewhat winding route.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2012
If someone goes to do this thing - take a photographer with you. It would be a wild shoot.