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Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Acrobatic Overhang 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C R

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: The Great John Gill
Page Views: 3,251
Submitted By: Ryan Sayers on Feb 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

The really cool and impressive boulder problem to the right of the start to Jackson's Wall. Basically, start on the right side of the little bouldering area with two crimps in the horizontal crack under a little roof. Make a few tough pulls up and left past another horizontal crack and small crimp, and wind up grappling with a nasty sloper. Fight your way to the top, and be impressed by Mr. Gill's skills.

Protection 

Pads and a spot.


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Comments on Acrobatic Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Childers
Aug 24, 2009

This rig is always a killer warm-up for me, but I love the line.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Aug 24, 2009

This picture is not of AO, it's a V5 by Cage Free. Nice picture, it to is a great boulder problem.
By CJC
Aug 24, 2009

Nice pic, wrong problem, not even the right formation. This is on the Citadel, a hundred yards and over the bridge from the real AO.
By Luke Childers
Aug 25, 2009

Sorry about the wrong photo beta info...guys. I think this one is called "The Standard Bulge." And this V5 is on the Citadel formation for sure. Thanks for your input.
By Luke Childers
Aug 25, 2009

If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line.

Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so.

Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!!
By John Long
Aug 2, 2010

I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so).

John
By D@n
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2012

The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer.

I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line.

I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations.