ACR Anchor Method?
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What are you thoughts on the ACR Anchor Method: The Alpine Cock Ring |
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Seems intersting. I know what you mean about metal to metal, I was taught the same way. But if you used a fully rated rap ring ( not cheap aluminum), and it stays weighted and loaded properly, it seems legit. |
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The link seems broken. Try |
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I've played around with Paul's system, and it seems fairly handy. My take on it is that it's essentially a homemade version of Trango's Alpine Equalizer. I'm a fan of the AE and use it a lot for trad anchors. |
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Just a tip on posting links - I have seen this several times. Include the http: and // prefix when posting the link. Include it when typing the link directly or when using the url tags. |
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After a lot of tinkering, I now keep my cordellete tied into an ACR all the time for cragging purposes. I haven't found anything quicker. I find that having no bulky knots to dress or finesse is my biggest time saver in anchor prep. Further, since the ACR will load all your gear relatively equally in all directions of downward pull, it saves further tinkering. Obviously finding gear takes the longest, but there's nothing you can do about that. |
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I use short ACRs for rope-soloing and like it a lot. One additional advanatge is that the rappel-ring acts as a lightweight powerpoint that you can clip up to three biners to. Lead line, haulline and onhe daisy. The system equalizes quite nicely as I go from cleaning a pitch to leading the next. |
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This looks really interesting - but I'm wondering if I'd use it over a sliding X. It shares the same major strengths (equalization) and weaknesses (non-redundancy on the cord). Here's how it breaks down to me:
Disadvantages:
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People probably hate to see posts like this in threads like these, but... Why not just anchor with the rope instead of bringing all the extra thingamajigs along? You are already tied in to a super-strong, super-dynamic cord. Just use it. |
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I like the idea. |
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I haven't had time to read through the whole link posted by rgold, but in regards to the redundancy, what would people think about tying the ACR out of 2 strands of 5mm mammut procord or something similar. Smaller diameter, but together, plenty strong and now redundant. Small enough that they should slide and adjust reasonably well. Would this be an improvement or do you see a fatal flaw?? |
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Wehling wrote:ACR out of 2 strands of 5mm mammut procord or something similar.Or even 4mm cord if we are going to go down this road... |
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I use a pre-tied equalette. The advantage of this over the equalette is true equalization of up to 3 pieces while the equalette can truly equalize only 2 points. |
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So a plus is that you are more equalized on your anchors, but what about shockloading? If any piece pops, you will likely shockload the others and maybe even pull those from the shock forces. Then it doesn't matter how strong your rap ring and cordalette are. While traditional SRENE methods can never be truly equalized, they seem to be the safest for shock loads. The sliding x falls subject to this as well. You have a tossup from equalization and shockloading.It is nice to have another backup completely separate from your main anchor system as well no? |
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I say forget those unwarranted fears of shockloading and redundancy, make your anchors distribute loads with solid pro, good angles, and move fast. |
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Did you see what the article said about shock loading though? The limiter knot the in long side reduces it quite a bit, and it can only drop half the distance of the longest arm. In his diagram the largest ended up being 11" I think, so you only drop 6" give a little for stretch, now doing it with Dyneema or Dynex....thats a different story. |
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Alias wrote:just use the rope+1 |
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I started out with Robbin's philosophy of minimal devices. Hip belay, carabiner brake rappel, and anchoring with the rope. Or anchoring with just one nut, or even no anchor at all if the circumstances are right. |
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If you needed this configuration for what ever reason, then wouldn't the locking carabiner in place of the ring accomplish the same thing without the extra piece of gear? |
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JPVallone wrote:If you needed this configuration for what ever reason, then wouldn't the locking carabiner in place of the ring accomplish the same thing without the extra piece of gear?I was wondering the same thing also. How is this really any different than a sliding x rigged to 3 pieces? The only plus I see over it is you don't have to question, "Did I put a twist in both sides? Were they twisted the right direction?" I still would like thoughts on 4 or 5mm double lines rigged this way though, to provide redundancy. |
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For starters, the math on the extensions are way off. |