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Acid Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charley Don't Surf T 
Divine Ms M., The T,S 
Four Eyes T 
Sandinista T 
Scary Monsters T 
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 

Acid Rock  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Apr 19, 2005
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Baby Helen's and Acid Rock from the top of Helen's...

Description 

Acid rock is the middle tier in the group of rocks beginning with Helen's Dome and ending with Velcro Wall (Sheep Rock's summit) It is 500' to 600' tall with immaculate granite slabs and a few good cracks. The first 200' to 400' holds the best climbing.

Getting There 

The directions under Helen's Dome are concise and will get you there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Acid Rock:
The Divine Ms M.   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches   
Four Eyes   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 370'   
Charley Don't Surf   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Sandinista   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Acid Rock

Featured Route For Acid Rock
Base of Route

Charley Don't Surf 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Acid Rock
Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description), head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Acid Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Acid Rock from the top of Helen's Dome
BETA PHOTO: Acid Rock from the top of Helen's Dome
Roto top
Roto top
Contemplating the walk to Acid Rock....
Contemplating the walk to Acid Rock....
Roto top. Third pitch
Roto top. Third pitch

Comments on Acid Rock Add Comment
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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 27, 2005
For some reason most of my description and directions are gone.....

The bridge has not been replaced! I didn't say that!

There is a log you can cross, with a handline north of the old bridge. You can get there by parking on the ridge just before you get to the old buried campground. You will see a "danger" sign, and a laminated piece of paper telling you that there is a log just east of the ridge top. Follow a trail along the top of the ridge, drop straight down to the river, and you will see it. From there, you can regain the old trail system on the other side of the river.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
May 31, 2006
I did the route just left of Charlie Don't Surf, which Hubbel calls #39, Unknown 5.10b. The bolts are all 3/8". The 2nd pitch has about 9 or 10 bolts now, is a bit friable, and struck me and my partner as a lot harder than rated. (We both thought Pow Wow Canal was easier, which seems right at 11a.) It appears to be drawn right, with the 2nd pitch easing up when you reach the shallow crack slightly diagonalling up right to the anchors (with much appreciated beefy bolts just below the old chains). Anybody else think it's under-rated?

BTW, assuming Hubbel has the drawings right, I did see 5 or 6 bolts to the left of us on the 2nd pitch of Sandinista(?) are still the old Leeper hangers, no doubt with 1/4" Star Drive or Button Head bolts, though it appears there's been some work on the first pitch, including the 1st anchors with quick connects. Any thoughts on this?