Acid Rock 5.12a
| 4,922 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Pete Cleveland and Steve Wunsch. First Lead: Jason Huston 2006 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Milhaupt on Jun 30, 2002 |
| |
Check out this little girl doing the route. Never...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block on Gill's buttress. Step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet. Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length.
Protection TR, if you can't set one, Tommy Boy will come and hit you on the head with a tack hammer because you are a retard.
Steve S. shamelessly top roping.
| This was after the Circus parade in Baraboo and ea...
| John Dobbe on Acid
| Rhoads on lead, very thankful for some pro!
| Matt Kuehl takes a break from Acid Rock to scope t...
| This was my onsite attempt. The actual beta makes ...
| | | |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Jun 30, 2002
| fa: pete cleveland and steve wunsch |
By Craig McCudden May 20, 2003
| Can you get past the cruton Check Valve???? |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 24, 2005
| the crouton stopper!yo,why hasnt this thing been led?or has it?soloed? i mean with enough top-rope rehearsal you can get this thing so wired.oops i mean "head-pointing",pre rehearsing routes on t.r. now has a cool name. anyway,i had thought about leading it on sky hooks with 5ml tag lines on them that the belayer held down tight after you placed them,but then i moved away and saved myself the trouble. does the sky hook idea sound to crazy,people do it. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Mar 29, 2005 rating: 5.12a
| I agree with Steve. Why has this not been led? Many regulars have this route wired into submission, so you would think that a lead ascent would be the natural progression. True, there is no pro to speak of, and the landing is, shall we say, "career ending". |
By Anonymous Apr 13, 2005
| Actually scoped out the pro in '85. It's there. Two very (very-very) good horizontals. Difficulty is they're just after the check valve. Maybe a knifeblade high and right to make a fall off the cv "only crippling." |
By SteveSchultz Sep 27, 2006
| Eat your hearts out. First lead: Jason Huston. 9/26/2006 badass |
By James M Schroeder From: Sauk County, WI Sep 27, 2006
| Sweet dude, your boy Jason deserves some props... |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Sep 28, 2006 rating: 5.12a
| I really never thought I would see the day. Bravo Jason. |
By David A Groth From: Lacrosse Oct 24, 2006
| Awesome lead, lets hear some details! |
By Trad Nanny Apr 21, 2009 rating: 5.12a X
| God, nice lead Huston. I'm still trying to fish in some decent gear on the first part. I'm thinking maybe a Trango Splitter Cam. I did figure some tall man beta to do that crux move more smoothly, dialing it in! |
By Trad Nanny Oct 13, 2009 rating: 5.12a X
| Ding! This one is done. I found that any hooks just got in my way in the middle so I stuck in some directionals at the start and then was able to stick in a good cam to the left before I made the traversing moves. A classic climb and a standard for the grade. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 13, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| Nice work Rhoads!!! |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 1, 2011
| Jay, Thanks for repostin Jason's essay. [Editor's note: The essay has been removed.] Its interesting to reread it and gain more perspective into what was going on in his head.He obviously thought hard about what he was setting out to do( ask a mom)As well as become somewhat obsessed with the climb. Bechler use to bug me about trying to lead Acid Rock as I had it more wired than he did,i remember lookin at the gear. At the time we couldnt bring our selves to place a pin on it but I thought about using hooks.Ultimatly i left to start a new life in colorado.Excuses ,excuses,it all adds up to what we use to call "failure to pull down" on my part. I think its great that jason led it and sent one of the best climbs at DL. A very proud send!(not to mention his other amazing leads at DL. Club Salute. Steve S. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Mar 3, 2011 rating: 5.12a
| Hey Jay, Steve, or anybody for that matter, does anyone know who soloed the route? And when? I was reading the forum from the original post and saw it mentioned? Just curious. |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 3, 2011
| Remo,the Solo of Acid Rock was by Mike McCarren late 80's 0r early 90's (same dude who soloed Bagatelle and slew of other hard routes that he did not bother bragging about)Peace and F-nes Steve S. |
|