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Gill's Buttress
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A Cleveland Route TR 
Acid Rock TR 
Blood Alcohol TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Fantasy TR 
Gill's Cheek T,TR 
Gill's Crack T,TR 
Gill's Nose TR 
Ice TR 
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 
Peyote Blues TR 
Psilocybin TR 
Slut For Punishment TR 
Spine, The T,TR 
Twin Cracks T 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 

Acid Rock 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland and Steve Wunsch. First Lead: Jason Huston 2006
Page Views: 6,002
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 30, 2002

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This was after the Circus parade in Baraboo and ea...

Description 

Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block on Gill's buttress. Step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet. Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length.


Protection 

TR, if you can't set one, Tommy Boy will come and hit you on the head with a tack hammer because you are a retard.



Photos of Acid Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Check out this little girl doing the route. <br /> <br />Never mind shes got like a + 6" Ape Index
Check out this little girl doing the route.

Never...
Steve S. shamelessly top roping.
Steve S. shamelessly top roping.
Matt Kuehl takes a break from Acid Rock to scope the moves on Peyote Blues. Note: this was not his send attempt as, of course, the ledge is off. But he did send right after on a 2nd attempt.
Matt Kuehl takes a break from Acid Rock to scope t...
Rhoads on lead, very thankful for some pro!
Rhoads on lead, very thankful for some pro!
John Dobbe on Acid
John Dobbe on Acid
This was my onsite attempt. The actual beta makes this move a lot less stretchy.
This was my onsite attempt. The actual beta makes ...
Comments on Acid Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 3, 2011
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 30, 2002

fa: pete cleveland and steve wunsch

By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

Can you get past the cruton Check Valve????

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 24, 2005

the crouton stopper!yo,why hasnt this thing been led?or has it?soloed? i mean with enough top-rope rehearsal you can get this thing so wired.oops i mean "head-pointing",pre rehearsing routes on t.r. now has a cool name. anyway,i had thought about leading it on sky hooks with 5ml tag lines on them that the belayer held down tight after you placed them,but then i moved away and saved myself the trouble. does the sky hook idea sound to crazy,people do it.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 29, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree with Steve. Why has this not been led? Many regulars have this route wired into submission, so you would think that a lead ascent would be the natural progression. True, there is no pro to speak of, and the landing is, shall we say, "career ending".

By Anonymous
Apr 13, 2005

Actually scoped out the pro in '85. It's there. Two very (very-very) good horizontals. Difficulty is they're just after the check valve. Maybe a knifeblade high and right to make a fall off the cv "only crippling."

By SteveSchultz
Sep 27, 2006

Eat your hearts out. First lead: Jason Huston. 9/26/2006

badass

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 27, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sweet dude, your boy Jason deserves some props...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 28, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I really never thought I would see the day. Bravo Jason.

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 24, 2006

Awesome lead, lets hear some details!

By Tradoholic
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X

God, nice lead Huston. I'm still trying to fish in some decent gear on the first part. I'm thinking maybe a Trango Splitter Cam. I did figure some tall man beta to do that crux move more smoothly, dialing it in!

By Tradoholic
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X

Ding! This one is done. I found that any hooks just got in my way in the middle so I stuck in some directionals at the start and then was able to stick in a good cam to the left before I made the traversing moves.
A classic climb and a standard for the grade.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice work Rhoads!!!

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 1, 2011

Jay, Thanks for repostin Jason's essay. [Editor's note: The essay has been removed.] Its interesting to reread it and gain more perspective into what was going on in his head.He obviously thought hard about what he was setting out to do( ask a mom)As well as become somewhat obsessed with the climb.
Bechler use to bug me about trying to lead Acid Rock as I had it more wired than he did,i remember lookin at the gear. At the time we couldnt bring our selves to place a pin on it but I thought about using hooks.Ultimatly i left to start a new life in colorado.Excuses ,excuses,it all adds up to what we use to call "failure to pull down" on my part.
I think its great that jason led it and sent one of the best climbs at DL. A very proud send!(not to mention his other amazing leads at DL. Club Salute. Steve S.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 3, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Hey Jay, Steve, or anybody for that matter, does anyone know who soloed the route? And when? I was reading the forum from the original post and saw it mentioned? Just curious.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 3, 2011

Remo,the Solo of Acid Rock was by Mike McCarren late 80's 0r early 90's
(same dude who soloed Bagatelle and slew of other hard routes that he did not bother bragging about)Peace and F-nes Steve S.