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This is a fun crack, mostly hands and big hands, that goes through a small overhang near the bottom. George Bracksieck thought it was about 5.9, but it is definitely harder. He climbed it in 1975, so maybe opinions have changed. If it was longer, it would be classic. It is fun though.
This is the crack to the right of Case of the Fags. You start with the first three bolts of It's Time for Change, going to a large ledge. From the ledge, go up another crack on the right to a small ledge at the start of the main crack. To get down, climb down to the anchors on Left-Handed Tool. It is best to belay at the top of the climb itself.
Bring a rack with some large cams. We used two #4 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots. We used some smaller cams as well but no nuts. I think the smallest cam needed is a #1 Camalot. The anchor can be made with #2 Camalots and maybe a #1.
At the start of the main crack.
|By Kevin Presley|
Mar 29, 2013
This doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the crack is pretty hard on the hands. I lost a considerable amount of my epidermis. I would recommend tape.