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Acid Crack T 
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Tour De Platte T 

Acid Crack 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: My guess is late '50s, names lost in the past.
Season: West Facing
Page Views: 3,235
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jun 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Climber on Acid Crack.

Description 

This is as close to doing Half Dome, without the cables, as we can get in the Denver area. Climbers where bagging hard summits at Chair Rocks in the 1950s, so I think Sheep Rock was probably summited in that decade.

From the "upper saddle" a finger crack diagonals up the easy slab. A rappel is normally done to descend.

Protection 

Finger sized stuff.


Photos of Acid Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The yellow line is the approximate location of the Acid Crack.
BETA PHOTO: The yellow line is the approximate location of the...
Acid Crack.
Acid Crack.
The route with a rope and gear following it.
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope and gear following it.
Starting up.
Starting up.
In the left crack, which is about to end.
In the left crack, which is about to end.
Upper Acid.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Acid.

Comments on Acid Crack Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a terrific crack at the grade (5.1, yikes, I think I called it 5.5 or so in my notes). Linking up Fractured Fairytales to Acid Crack to the summit of the Helen's Dome massif is the ultimate date climb with somebody who is just beginning to climb.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Your "HalfDome" comparison/description sounds like the CMC route, Ken? Maybe already posted as South Ramp!? and this
By slim
Administrator
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Finger crack sounds right though. Man, what a nice little finger crack for the grade.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Little more description of this little gem.

Probably most insecure move is the first 8 feet starting off the ground. After that, solid jams in diagonalling splitter crack. Takes larger stoppers. A few hand sized cams work higher too. At some point, you step right and switch cracks, and follow this until you pass a quarter-inch bolt, signaling your rope is about out, the crack dies out and you belay with finger size pieces OR sneak right to a two bolt anchor of the bolted route. From this point, you can walk up the summit slab.

I think of this route as kind of a low-angled Charley Don't Surf.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

That's funny, I was going to say that if this route was steeper it would be like Charlie Don't Surf.
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

You can keep running this crack up a full rope length. It doesn't get you to the top, though. We set up an intermediate belay 190' up, then my 2nd belayed me from the rap anchors on top of the Bolted Route. Takes all sorts of gear - nuts to #2.5 cams and tri-cams. Great stuff.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jul 1, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I would say 5.3 except for one tricky slab move after the crack ends (maybe a 5.5 move).

It's easy at the bottom until you reach the crack. Then it gets easier. When the first crack ends, step left to another. The crux comes after the 2nd crack ends. I stepped left again to a big flake then up right to the crack that leads to the summit... super fun.

We simul-climbed all the way to the top. But I think it would be easier (and safer) to belay when you run out of rope. And then either walk up unroped or do it as a 2nd pitch.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

You'll need a 70mm to descend.