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"Aces High" follows a steep buttress 20m left of the toe of the Chimney on the Royal Headwall. This line is 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The full 60m route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Stand atop the flake and clip the first bolt and let the game begin. The second bolt is high above behind a 5' pine. Follow the bolts straight above, over fresh lichen (slippery on the steep slab) and 3 roofs, to a pair of double ring anchors on Lovers' Ledge. From the anchors, traverse 20m right on Lovers' Ledge to the 2-bolt anchors on Royal Flush and continue on from there or rappel with 2-60m ropes. You could potentially rap with one 60m rope from the Royal Flush anchors to the chimney/slab anchors, and do one more partial rap down the slab, staying close to the slot, and downclimb the 5.4 slab for 30m to the talus field/base. This route has been bolted a bit differently from the Royal Flush, a bit more spicy/spacious. Enjoy, the bolts are there where you need them and it offers an exciting alternative/bypass to the excellent Royal Flush line.
You will find the start 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Another option is to begin 10m left of the chimney end and traverse in left to the 5' pine and begin from there on bolt #2. There are a few small pines then a larger group, the route begins within the larger group. A large, detached flake that sits on the ground on your right marks the true start. Rap the route (with 2-60m ropes)or continue to the top via Royal Flush.
16 bolts in 60m. You could try to augment with thin pro (#000- #2 C3s), but skill will prevail over gear. Finishes on Lovers' Ledge with 2-double ring Fixe anchors. Rap (with 2 ropes) or traverse right (20m) on the ledge to Royal Flush.
|By summit climber|
Sep 11, 2011
Nice work, Rob! I look forward to climbing more of your fine work, and I saw you put up 2 more routes on White Cliff...right on.
|By Brian Pappas|
From: silverthorne CO
Sep 11, 2011
Thanks, Rob and Carrie, another fine line on Royal.
|By D Sharp|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The route starts at N39 34.290 W106 06.568. Amazing pitch, which is about to get a bit harder. The nice positive ledge left and below the third bolt is about to come off.
Rope drag can also be a bit of an issue, so make sure to use long slings.
Oh, and thank you to the folks who bailed off the third bolt for the BD oval ;) We'll make sure to pass it on when the time comes to bail off a route.
|By Doug Redosh|
Aug 22, 2012
Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.
That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as it is right on the arete at that point. Thanks, Griz!
Doug Redosh (Al Margolis' friend)
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Very fun variation to the route "Royal Flush"! We spotted the bolt line when at the base of the headwall looking for the next Flush pitch and decided to give it a go. Long and quite sustained, this was definitely the crux and highlight of the route.
Word of caution --- this route is still a little dirty with a good amount of lichen and will be slippery for quite a while after getting wet. It had rained the day previous to when we climbed it, and trusting your feet became a major issue. Just a heads up.
Jul 14, 2013
If you're working on Royal Flush, this variation is well worth seeking out. Echoing Erik's comment, there was a fair bit of wet moss on the route. If the route was cleaner, I'd have rated it as a classic climb.