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Dent de Jaman
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Ace of Spades 5b 

Ace of Spades 5b 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A0

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A0 [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 7, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing the route Ace of Spades on Dent de Ja...

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.6): follow the bolts through a few vertical sections on crumbly holds. Moves feel harder than they are due to the quality of the rock.
Pitch 2 (5.5): Do one interesting move and then hike up the tufts of grass to a ledge (note: it is possible to hike to this ledge to bypass the first two pitches).
Pitch 3 (5.10d or 5.8 A0). Perform an awkward traverse before coming to a short but steep wall. Pull through it to a jug and continue to the anchors.
Pitch 4 (5.7): Pleasant varied climbing takes you up to a hidden anchor (when you feel that you have run out of bolts look down and to your left around a block).

Pulling through a vertical section on Pitch 4
Pulling through a vertical section on Pitch 4

Pitch 5 (5.7): Continue up a grassy bit to an interesting right facing crack/corner system. The anchors are at the top.
The crack on Pitch 5 on the route Ace of Spades.
The crack on Pitch 5 on the route Ace of Spades.


Location 

The easiest way is to follow the path which goes below the mountain and circles around toward the Southern side. Once the southern face comes into view follow the red markings up a very steep scree slope towards the face. Once you reach the base, there will be signs directing you to the left (toward I Wanna Rock) or to the right (toward Ace of Spades). Follow the signs to Ace of Spades. Continue along the wall until you see red paint saying "Ace".


Protection 

Route is entirely bolted and belays are equipped for rappel.



Photos of Ace of Spades 5b Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through a vertical section on Pitch 4
Pulling through a vertical section on Pitch 4
Dent de Jaman South face at dusk.  Ace of Spades is the spur facing directly toward the camera.
Dent de Jaman South face at dusk. Ace of Spades i...
The crack on Pitch 5 on the route Ace of Spades.
The crack on Pitch 5 on the route Ace of Spades.
Climbing on Ace of Spades
Climbing on Ace of Spades
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