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 ADVANCED
The North Forty
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little Moore S 
Ace in the Hole S 
Action Hotdog S 
Adult Supervision S 
African Herbman S 
Around the Fur S 
Big Top S 
Brand New S 
Bulb, The S 
Caught in the Closet Again S 
Chica Bonita S 
Chica Bonito S 
Circus Freaks T 
Class clown T 
Clown Suit T 
Controversy, The S 
Corn Grinder S 
Cotton Candy S 
Count Chalkula S 
Cow Killer T 
Cows in the Mist S 
Crab Louse S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dancing Bears T 
Dancing Outlaw S 
Dos Hermanos S 
Dreadlock Holiday T 
E-Kat S 
Earl's Revenge T 
Eighteen Inches S,TR 
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 
Fat Hand S 
First Normal Form S 
Flashbacks T 
Frankenberry S 
Girth Hitch S 
Goldmember S 
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 
Green Goblin S 
Groove Tube T 
Groovy S 
Hangs a Little to the Left S 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 
Harry Potter S 
Honorary Brave S 
Horny Goatweed S 
Hurricane, The S 
Ides of March, The S 
Jackhole S 
Jewell Always Smiles S 
Jewell Says  S 
Kids Stuff T 
Kurbcheck S 
Lamb Chops S 
Lampe Land S 
Lavender Eye S 
Leonid S 
Lion Tamer S 
Little Manly Man S 
Little Miss Giggles T 
Local Hebrew S 
Love Slave S 
Marek's Golden Way T 
Mclovin' It S 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 
Mefloquine Dreams S 
Mine Mine Mine S 
Missing Rack T 
Molt S 
More Better S 
Mossy Revelations T 
Mr. Hanky S 
Narwhal T,TR 
Newton County Mentality S 
Ojos Locos S 
Owen's Best Buddy S 
Paul's Redemption S 
Perfect Hair Forever S 
Petrified S 
Piratas Putas  S 
Playing Hooky S 
Poetry in Goshen T 
Poison Ivy Route, The T 
Private Property S 
Pulp Fiction S 
Roman Says S 
Roman's Empire S 
Romaniac, The S 
Scrambled Eggs S 
Seaana Says S 
Season of the Storm S 
Serfs and Lords S 
Sin Nombre S 
Smooth Criminal S 
Some Moore Better S 
Something for CiCi S 
Something for E-Kat S 
Something for Jewell S 
Something for Roman S 
Sonny Jim S 
Sonrisa Loca S 
Sons of the Soil S 
Sour Girl S 
Spam S 
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 
Strongman S 
summer rain S 
Sundial S 
Too Short for the Short Bus S 
Towely S 
Trapeze Artist S 
Tres Equis S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Uncle Grandfather T 
Webster's Part S 
Webster's Partner S 
Zeke's Didge Dance S 
Zeppelin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ace in the Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Mike Cohen on Nov 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

This new route starts on Green Goblin and then veers right. Traverse on big ledges right, to the brief crux section, leaning off a wonderful sidepull rail and stepping up to more jugs. The rest is simple but still fun.

The consensus rating seems to be 5.10a right now, but it felt easier to me than its nearby neighbor First Normal Form 5.9+.

Location 

Start on Green Goblin 5.8, but follow the right bolt line.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Alfonso
Mar 9, 2015

You can climb this line direct instead of starting Green Goblin and then traversing. Starts with very high crimp, high feet onto another deadpoint crimp. It finally eases once you reach the horizontal hand jam. I guess the route starts at 11+. Whoever bolts out there...this line is asking for a bolt below the horizontal. A stick clip will protect the cruxy start and boom, you have another 11+ route that is consistent with Circus Wall.
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