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The North Forty
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little Moore S 
Accident, The T 
Ace in the Hole S 
Action Hotdog S 
Adult Supervision S 
African Herbman S 
Around the Fur S 
Auntie Grandmother T 
Big Top S 
Brand New S 
Bulb, The S 
Caught in the Closet Again S 
Chica Bonita S 
Chica Bonito S 
Circus Freaks T 
Class clown T 
Clown Suit T 
Controversy, The S 
Corn Grinder S 
Cotton Candy S 
Count Chalkula S 
Cow Killer T 
Cows in the Mist S 
Crab Louse S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dancing Bears T 
Dancing Outlaw S 
Dos Hermanos S 
Dreadlock Holiday T 
E-Kat S 
Earl's Revenge T 
Eighteen Inches S,TR 
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 
Faded Memory T 
Fat Hand S 
First Normal Form S 
Flashbacks T 
Frankenberry S 
Girth Hitch S 
Goldmember S 
Great Gracious Grant, The S 
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 
Green Goblin S 
Groove Tube T 
Groovy S 
Guide's Corner T 
Hangs a Little to the Left S 
Hardly Spot 'Er T 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 
Harry Potter S 
Honorary Brave S 
Horny Goatweed S 
Hurricane, The S 
Ides of March, The S 
Jackhole S 
Jewell Always Smiles S 
Jewell Says  S 
Kids Stuff T 
Kurbcheck S 
Lamb Chops S 
Lampe Land S 
Lavender Eye S 
Legacy 26 S 
Leonid S 
Lion Tamer S 
Little Manly Man S 
Little Miss Giggles T 
Local Hebrew S 
Love Slave S 
Marek's Golden Way T 
Mclovin' It S 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 
Mefloquine Dreams S 
Mine Mine Mine S 
Missing Rack T 
Molt S 
More Better S 
Mossy Revelations T 
Mr. Hanky S 
Narwhal T,TR 
Newton County Mentality S 
Ojos Locos S 
Owen's Best Buddy S 
Paul's Redemption S 
Perfect Hair Forever S 
Perfect Trifecta, The S 
Petrified S 
Piratas Putas  S 
Playing Hooky S 
Poetry in Goshen T 
Poison Ivy Route, The T 
Private Property S 
Pulp Fiction S 
Roman Says S 
Roman's Empire S 
Romaniac, The S 
Scrambled Eggs S 
Seaana Says S 
Season of the Storm S 
Serfs and Lords S 
Short Stack T 
Side Show T 
Sin Nombre S 
Sin Nombre Moore S 
Slide Show T 
Smooth Criminal S 
Some Moore Better S 
Something for CiCi S 
Something for E-Kat S 
Something for Jewell S 
Something for Roman S 
Sonny Jim S 
Sonrisa Loca S 
Sons of the Soil S 
Sour Girl S 
Spam S 
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 
Strongman S 
summer rain S 
Sundial S 
Sure Thing T 
Swiss Family Pancakes T 
the Elephant Man T 
Tongue and Groove T 
Too Short for the Short Bus S 
Towely S 
Towely 24HHH Variation S 
Trapeze Artist S 
Tres Equis S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Uncle Grandfather T 
Wanted Man T 
Webster's Part S 
Webster's Partner S 
Zeke's Didge Dance S 
Zeppelin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ace in the Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 520
Submitted By: Mike Cohen on Nov 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This new route starts on Green Goblin and then veers right. Traverse on big ledges right, to the brief crux section, leaning off a wonderful sidepull rail and stepping up to more jugs. The rest is simple but still fun.

The consensus rating seems to be 5.10a right now, but it felt easier to me than its nearby neighbor First Normal Form 5.9+.


Start on Green Goblin 5.8, but follow the right bolt line.



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By Alfonso
Mar 9, 2015

You can climb this line direct instead of starting Green Goblin and then traversing. Starts with very high crimp, high feet onto another deadpoint crimp. It finally eases once you reach the horizontal hand jam. I guess the route starts at 11+. Whoever bolts out there...this line is asking for a bolt below the horizontal. A stick clip will protect the cruxy start and boom, you have another 11+ route that is consistent with Circus Wall.

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