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 ADVANCED
Crystal Lake Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace Dick T,TR 
Arete of Regret T,TR 
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 
Electric Dylan T 
Fingerbang TR 
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 
Garbage Chute T,TR 
I'm Lichen This TR 
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR 
Leaper Route, The T,TR 
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 
One Armed Swordsman, The T 
Rocktease T,TR 
Tourist Route, The T 
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 
Waste of Time T,TR 
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 

Ace Dick 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Season: Year round
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Oct 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Taco drytooling the route. Photo by Amanda C.

Description 

This is a good route for beginning trad leaders and mixed climbers, as there are several easy ledges to place gear from. This route is blocky and easy. Lichen makes smearing difficult. Once you figure out the simple sequence of moves, it's a very easy route.

Location 

This is the first route you encounter by taking the scree slope on the right side of CLC. It is easily identifiable by the graffiti at the base of the crag, facing north. Go around the corner to the south facing crag and you'll see more graffiti, a penis that says 'Ace' on it. Route goes straight up the ace dick!

Protection 

Standard rack of cams and nuts. The cracks in the lower half of the route work great for cams and large nuts, and a flake up top is good for small nuts. Anchor up top is a Granite/Quartz crack, good for nuts and smaller cams. Bring a long length of cord (+/-20ft)to extend the anchor out over the edge of the rock to cut down on ropedrag. Pad the edge with something to protect the cord. There is a class 3 walkoff to the left of the anchor.


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Amanda C climbing Ace Dick
Amanda C climbing Ace Dick

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By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Will likely take all of two cams to lead, maybe three if this is your grade, you'll actually probably use just as many pieces building the anchor. Climbed it with snow on the ground this past weekend, very short (felt like a highball V0 boulder problem) but I can't complain.