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Accident on Darkness 'till Dawn

Original Post
trispad · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 10

Anyone know what happened on Darkness 'till Dawn in Eldo yesterday afternoon?

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I wasn't on the wall that day, and I'm writing only to try and prevent another one.

I understand it was a take and lower non-fatal accident with not enough rope in the system to which the climber was lowered off the end of the rope. I don't know the technical rigging setup.

The beta on this route allows for a 30M rap with some scrambling involved, but isn't clear as to a take and lower; unfortunately, there is a fall hazard. Which, as I understand it, someone tried to relay this concern prior to the accident.

Thanks to those that helped out & assisted the fallen climber.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

In my memory, counting only times when I was present in Eldo at the time this has happened, this is the 3rd time on this climb in 5 years.
I am guessing this is where the discussion starts about if more bolt anchors would have prevented it, or if bolt anchors actually facilitate this sort of dependancy and behavior.
While the discussion will rage on forever, people need to take a moment and remember that they can not assume anything about the height of an anchor and should mark the middle of every rope.
I, for one, climb almost exclusively on bicolor ropes. I have my parter audibly should "1/2 rope" when every I hit the mark.
Then I know I'm going to be too far to lower/rap, or whatever when I finally reach the anchors. I also observe where the middle is when I start belaying- is more than 1/2 of the rope out still to reach my partner on the ground? If so, then I again know we are too high up to rap or lower.
Bicolor ropes are far better than middle marks becuase you can not miss the middle- you can just see if the pattern at the belay is the same as what you are tied into.
TooTallTim pointed out something the other day- asking how high an anchor was- His thought was in advance, 'If you don't know if you can lower for there, I am tying in now.'
Amen, and thanks!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

It's a drag seeing the same accident occur on the same climb year after year.

Me? I tie the knott. A lot. Reinforcing habits is good.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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