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Accident in Boulder Canyon 8/22/13
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By Justin Compton
From Longmont, CO
Aug 23, 2013
Bonnie's Roof

www.timescall.com/top-stories/ci_23920767/2-climbers-hospita>>>

Anybody have info on what happened?


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By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Aug 23, 2013

Pretty vague write-up in the paper. Belay anchor failure?


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Aug 23, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.

Yeah, it seems weird for both climbers to fall after a single piece of equipment failed. Curious to hear what happened... Best wishes for their recovery!


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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

A lot of shit has been going down in the front range recently. Be safe out there people. Here's to a speedy recovery to all of our fallen climbers this season and past. Mine, and many of our thoughts are with you.


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By ErikaNW
Aug 23, 2013
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010

There was a death at Lumpy yesterday also. No details given.

www.denverpost.com/news/ci_23922881/climber-dies-at-rocky-mo>>>

Best wishes to all involved in both accidents. Climb safe.


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By Robert D.
From Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2013
Yargh, Pirate Rob do be in Yosemite

I believe they were at Bell Buttress, where many climbs start from a substantial ledge. The leader fell, some gear pulled, the leader went off the ledge and the belayer was pulled off. I'm sure they know the extent of any mistakes they made, so no need to assess what they may have done wrong. I wish them both a speedy recovery.


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Aug 23, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.

Robert D. wrote:
I believe they were at Bell Buttress, where many climbs start from a substantial ledge. The leader fell, some gear pulled, the leader went off the ledge and the belayer was pulled off. I'm sure they know the extent of any mistakes they made, so no need to assess what they may have done wrong. I wish them both a speedy recovery.


Makes sense; that sucks. Best wishes.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 26, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

I'm sure they know the extent of any mistakes they made, so no need to assess what they may have done wrong.

I bet they don't know what went wrong.... gear pulled out, several pieces and the anchor!!!!??????

I would be very interested to learn how these fellows "lost the whole party"???


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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Aug 26, 2013
First climb after knee surgery <br />

Guy Keesee wrote:
I'm sure they know the extent of any mistakes they made, so no need to assess what they may have done wrong. I bet they don't know what went wrong.... gear pulled out, several pieces and the anchor!!!!?????? I would be very interested to learn how these fellows "lost the whole party"???


I am sorry for the injured party. It sucks having a severe injury. But .... I agree, if you aren't willing to accept a critical analysis what yiou have done wrong, you will do it again. Hat is a critical analysis of what facts there are, and not the guesses that will be found on the web.

I am not being insensitive (maybe a little) but I myself am recovering from an injury that should have killed me (mountain biking accident).

Myself I had a momentary lapse of concentration while mountain biking and caught a handle bar on a tree branch spinning my handle bars. the end result.

had a large cervical displacement of C3/C4 (should have killed me by shutting down my breathing), fractures at C5 (caused partial paralysis in my arms but in reality should have caused me to be quadrapalegic), C6 (a minor fracture) and C7 (multiple fracture lines) along with a severe C7/T1 displacement

my mistakes:

1) Failure to concentrate (whole cause of the accident)
2) was wearing a pack (prevented me from rolling)

Costs of my mistakes

1) Significant hardship to my parents, daughters (who are dealing with anxiety from my injury), girlfriend (who took care of me), friends, climbing partners......
2) permanent residual injuries (loss of feelings in my fingers, possibly permanent activation of some nerves that have other affects (feeling pukey 24/7) and fused bones in my neck limiting mobility).

I accept my mistakes, and the outcome and hardships it has caused (even though I was damn lucky since my greatest worry right now is will I be able to attempt 5.12/.13 cracks by fall when I am cleared to lead, whereas I should have had to worry about do I turn right or left in the wheelchair using the blow tube, or who will be changing my diaper since I have no muscle control from my arms down.

This may sound harsh but momentary lapses in judgement can have HUGE affects ion those around us.

But in the mean time for those involved, best wishes...

If you still don't know what I am saying... its that you have to own up to your mistake, understand what you did, and accept the hardship it has caused to those around you. If you don't allow someone to critique what you did and the mistakes, it is a huge disservice to yourself and the those around you.


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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 26, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background

I'm going to guess the belayer was not anchored and the ledge he is referring to is one you can scramble/climb up to unroped. I imagine the belayer was treating belaying from the ledge as he would if belaying from the ground. I do not know the circumstances but I would guess the leader only had one or two placements in and fell, pulling out the piece(s) and pulling his belayer off with him. It is still strange that multiple placements would come out at Boulder Canyon (good rock, not sandstone that shears).


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By crankenstein
Aug 26, 2013

Sounds like it could have been the start of Cosmosis??? Best wishes to the fallen.


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By bap87
From Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2013

I know a friend of the fallen climbers. LawHous is pretty much how you described it. The climber was resting on the first piece, and the belayer wasn't anchored. Climber fell and pulled both of them off the ledge.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 29, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

bap87.... thank you for that.

broke some "rules" for sure.


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By claramie
From Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2013
Should I be trying this hard on a warmup? <br /> <br />photo by Rob Kepley

From what I heard via second-hand account, they were climbing the Spoils. The leader rested on a piece before the first bolt, then he tried the move and came off (or went back to rest on the piece again, not sure which) it ripped. Leader pulled the second off the ledge. I think they didn't have an anchor but I don't know that for sure.

I always try to learn from mistakes, both my own and those by others. From this, I realize that I need to be more vigilant about still using belay anchors when I'm on a ledge, or at the very least keep one bomber piece in.

My thoughts go out to these guys. Hoping for a full recovery for both of them... and that some of us can avoid a similar future incident by learning something here.


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 29, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

damn, if correct, that would be pretty crazy to not have an anchor for the belayer for that route. it is pretty in your face from the start and the gear is strenuous to place well. the belay is pretty uncomfortable also. man, i hope they are ok.


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By kevin murphy
From Lafayette, Colorado
Aug 29, 2013
road

claramie wrote:
From what I heard via second-hand account, they were climbing the Spoils. The leader rested on a piece before the first bolt, then he tried the move and came off (or went back to rest on the piece again, not sure which) it ripped. Leader pulled the second off the ledge. I think they didn't have an anchor but I don't know that for sure. I always try to learn from mistakes, both my own and those by others. From this, I realize that I need to be more vigilant about still using belay anchors when I'm on a ledge, or at the very least keep one bomber piece in. My thoughts go out to these guys. Hoping for a full recovery for both of them... and that some of us can avoid a similar future incident by learning something here.



Not that it means anything, but there are no bolts on the Spoils, right?


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By claramie
From Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2013
Should I be trying this hard on a warmup? <br /> <br />photo by Rob Kepley

you're probably right Kev. I don't remember the route that well as I only TR'd it once 3 or 4 years ago. Maybe the directional I remember was a piece of gear. Either way, re-weighting or falling on the first piece caused it to fail from what I heard.


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By kevin murphy
From Lafayette, Colorado
Aug 29, 2013
road

Yeah, just was under it the other day. Either way, anyone could make that hasty mistake, hope for a fast recovery.


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By Will Butler
From Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2013
ice park

The leader took on the first piece on The Spoils at Bell Buttress. The piece ripped, he decked and then fell off the 30 foot ledge where the route starts from. He pulled his belayer off with him and they tumbled all the way into Boulder Creek. While both parties got super f'd up, the belayer got the worst of it.


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Aug 29, 2013

Man that route scares me. I've led it once, red pointed it & swear to never lead it again.

There is a bomber 0.5 camalot pretty low off the ledge on the route. It doesn't seem like it'll prevent a ground fall (but in reality, you'll just shoot past the ledge if you fall a good distance). I shudder to think I actually skipped that placement on my lead...all the other gear you can place before the crux are a bit suspect, as the crack is shallow & a little friable.

I was belaying a friend when he decided to down aid from the crux. I warned him more than once to check whether the (green alien size) gear was any good. Sure enough, when he fully weighed the piece, it popped & he shot past the ledge, with only the 0.5 camalot keeping both of us from tumbling toward the creek. Makes my stomach turn a bit that this did happen. Hoping for a speedy recovery to the pair.


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